Civic EG

I just installed my odyssey battery behind the front bumper and fusebox is behind the glove box. Now it doesn't start as easy as it used to. I had some problems before, that was due to a bad main relay.

So the wire from the starter to the + is the same lenght and diameter.
Ground is the same lenght and diameter.
and the one from the alternator to the fusebox (which is now inside) is also the same lenght and diameter.

So that leaves the wire from the fusebox to the + terminal. That is now longer but kept it the same diameter.

Yesterday it started but stalled almost right away the first time, then it fired up the second time. Drove it for just under a mile and it stalled. Tried starting it, didn't go on. Second time it did and I could drive it home without problems.

Now this morning it started but again it stalled almost right away. Second time no problems and drove it to work without any issues.

I always wait for the fuel pump to stop making noise before I start. It has a new main relay.

Voltage for the battery was 12.75 I believe when I checked that yesterday.

What could this be? Ignition going bad, or the dizzy maybe.

Make sure your grounds are clean clean. I thought I had a good ground and mine was giving me fits until I cleaned the metal really well

Yes Check all grounds I have an Odyssey PC680 and it has never given me problems starting unless I have let the car sit for too long. I bought a battery tender and now I don't worry about the car sitting for too long now.
I used 4 ga. wire when I relocated my battery & fuse box because the battery was now further from the fuse box.

Will check the grounds. But which ones are there? I know the one near the starter, and from the valve cover to the headlight. Cleaned the negative yesterday.

I guess it has something to do with the positive from the battery to the fusebox inside. Because the distance is larger then original. Almost 2 meters now instead of the 20-30cm it was. I used the same thickness wire as original for that.

I also have the PC680.

teal_dx wrote:I used 4 ga. wire when I relocated my battery & fuse box because the battery was now further from the fuse box.

Did you use the 4ga wire for the one from the alternator to the fuse and also for the positive to the fusebox?

I used 4 ga. from the battery (behind front bumper) to a distribution block (behind dash) and from the block to the starter. 8 Gauge is used for all the engine grounds, and to go from the power distribution block to the fuse box, and I used the OEM 8 gauge wire to go from the fuse box to the alternator.

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=92& ... c&start=15

Thanks for the reply,

I think that is my problem for the hard starting.

Need to change the wire that goes from the fusebox to the positive to a 4ga instead of the oem 8ga.

But then again. What does that positive to the fusebox do? I mean, does it have anything to to with starting the car.

Today I started the car, it ran for like 2 seconds and it dies. Started it up again, 2 seconds and it dies again. Third time it does start up.

So doesn't seem like the battery can't handle it, because after 2 starts it would not work the third time I guess.

Do you cycle the key when it dies and then restart?

what does that mean. Turn it back to ''off''? Never heard of this, but that is just because I usually speak Dutch :p

I turn it back to ''off'', and then back until the fuel pump stops and the light goes out, and then turn it on to start.

So back home now from work.

I had to give it 4 goes this time. The fourth time slightly put the gas down and then it would run.

Got home (20min drive) turned it of. Waited a minute or so, tried to start and it turns on the first try without touching the gas. Second time and third time as well.

Any idea what I could check. It doesn't look like a bad ground to me. Because then it would also have problems when the engine is warmed up I guess.

Have you tried connecting the original full-size battery up to see if it solves the problem?

leonsel wrote:what does that mean. Turn it back to ''off''? Never heard of this, but that is just because I usually speak Dutch :p

I turn it back to ''off'', and then back until the fuel pump stops and the light goes out, and then turn it on to start.

Yes, basically I'm asking if you turn the key fully off and back to the on position and then to the start position causing the fuel pump to prime again. Sounds to me like your fuel pump will prime but stay running.

@ teal_dx: I have not tried this yet. But I don't think the battery is the problem here, but I will give that a go though just to be sure.

@ HeikDiesel: Yeah I turn it to off and then back to on and then start it. I hear the pump stopping so not sure about that.


I have been reading some other things as well. Because of the fact that it starts up fine when hot and when cold it just struggles.

It might have something to do with the IACV and and a coolant sensor. Iacv works a bit like a choke used to do I believe. I know it has something to do with the idle, because I had problems with that thing before.

Now the temperature has gone down a bit these past few days, winter is coming. And also read that I should make sure there is enough coolant in the system and the overflow as well. So the sensor and IACV work correct

What I did just this evening was filling that up to the max mark on the overflow. And changed my Spoon radiator cap to the OEM one.

Engine was cooled down after three hours I guess. It started right on the first try.

Could just be lucky . Will see what it does in the morning ;)