Civic EG

Im having issues with my LSVtec

*little misfire
*lose and gain of power in certain RPMS (like on and off)
*Code 1 for Oxygen Sensor
*Code 8 for TDC Sensor
*Low RPM sometimes
*RPM goes up and down and sometimes stays at 1000 and moves up and down slightly/slowly from 700-1100
*delayed start (but could be

i have checked for loose wiring and made a list

*99 SI head (b16a)
*96 jdm LS Block (B18b)
*reman Dizzy that is only 4 months old, still had issue when replaced dizzy*
*P28 ECU from Phearable.net
*NO JUMPER HARNESS
*Seems like a OBD1/2 harness
*Vtec Wired seperetly from ECU to switch
*OBD2 SI Distributor
*TPMS Sensor wires are cut and need to be re-soldered

any one can help me troubleshoot this? maybe i need to re look at a few things but now i am so stumped on this thing, its been giving me this light for a year now and i can restart the ECU and it will disappear but come back after a few miles...

Also replaced the spark plugs for the correct plugs (it had bosch before) and have new rotor, cap, wires, and o ring...

I would start by fixing the obvious things you listed (repair cut wires, ditch the vtec switch- the ecu is more accurate than a switch). First I would replace the bad o2 sensor since the engine will always run bad with a bad o2.

no it doesnt have a manual VTAK SWITCH lol, ECU controls that...it hits Vtec in 5k RPM and 2 step in 4k RPM

my car isnt pre-wired for vtec cause its canadian, so i had it wired from the ECU to the connection in the strut tower location then to the Vtec switch an solonoid

im going to buy some heat shrinks and soldering tip tonight to get started on fixing the simple crap in the wires, problem is that i might have to redo my entire harness cause it use to be OBD1 and now its half OBD1 and half OBD2 and the previous owner had it taped up with electrical tape

my google research is telling me to check the Ohms on the TDC on the Dizzy connectors. if it goes bad, then i know the dizzy is bad, if not (and i hope not) there is a short in the wiring somewhere...

ugh i hate hack jobs...

the o2 sensor is probably a issue but not for the CODE 8 CEL...

Th code 8 might have to do with the dizzy (maybe the way it is wired) because I think the difference in obd1 vs obd2 dizzys is that obd1 has the tdc sensor built in to the dizzy. I think that's right... I remember there's some sensor difference.

hmm well my dizzy is OBD2 since its from a 99 B16

i bought a timing gun and a voltometer to help me out a little and i set the car on TDC, not one degree off on the distributor, and checked the timing and its all on point...

runs a lot smoother, but still nee to fix the cut in the TPMS wiring cause the car died on me twice on a light after low idle (i made a video to help a little)

instead of putting 93 gas, i put 87 this morning from an empty tank, car runs a lot smoother with less backfires from downshifting, still need to take it up to highway speeds to hear the motor and still need to fix the cut in the wire...doing that as i type this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZRSN1kY1Zo

video of idle after a quick dash and vtec, then turn it off, and back on...engine warmed up already...

what do you think? lol

Yes your dizzy is obd2, therefore I don't think it has a tdc sensor. If I remember correctly, obd2 motors have them near the crank pulley. That's most likely your code 8. Fix by using an obd1 dizzy.

fixed the wire on the TPMS sensor, runs like it should and no more idle issues, but still got code 8...checked the plugs in the distributor and noticed where the TDC input and output is a green wire and a red wire...which is female side, and the male side is orange blue and white blue...checked the connection from the ECU side and saw the TDC input and output was OBD2 spec with orange blue and white blue wires....

after much research i find out that i might have the 2 TDC wires backwards, probably in the Shock Tower...if connection is not backwards, then i need to put a voltometer on the TDC connection starting from the ECU and moving up to find the short...

question is, does anyone know where i can find the strut tower's passenger side 3 plug diagram for a 95 civic, ive been searching and even made my own just to find out that i was wrong lol

NVM! i found it lol...i hope this helps other people also

"Plug 1=14 pin (from left to right)
top row: A16=alternator control(white/yellow) A6-=primary o2 sensor heater control(orange/black) A4=vtec solenoid(orange/white)

2nd row: D21=sensor ground 1(green/blue) D17=MAP sensor(pink/white) D19=sensor voltage for MAP D6=vtec pressure switch(orange/blue)

3rd row: D11=throttle position sensor(pink/black) D22=sensor ground 2(green/white) D20=sensor voltage for TPS(yellow/white) A21=ignition control module(red/green)

bottom row: D15=intake air temp(red/yellow) D13=engine coolant temp sensor(red/white) D9=alternator FR charge signal(pink)

-----------------------------------------------

Plug 2-10pin
top row: B2=logic ground 2(brown/black) D14=primary heated o2(white) A26=logic ground 1(black/red)

middle row: B11=CYP sensor p-side(orange) B12=CYP ground m-side(white) B13=TDC ground p-side(orange/blue) B14=TDC ground m-side(white/blue)

bottom row: B15=CKP P ground(blue/greemn) B16=CKP M ground(blue/yellow) empty

-----------------------------------------------

Plug 3-4pin
Top: A3=injector 2(red) A1=injector 1(brown)
bottom: A2=injector 4(yellow) A5=injector 3(light blue)

link: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3150054

Let us know if swapping the two wires fixes it.

swapped it out, reset the ECU and still have the code, put it back to spec and started to use the voltmeter, 30 ohms from the ECU to the back of the strut tower plugs, but 15 ohms from the strut tower plugs to the engine...

thats my issue! seems like whoever cut/spliced the harness before, ended up with some loose ends or exposed ends...now all thats left is finding it and fixing it