Civic EG

Iv got a '95 EG Hatch. I'm fairly new to NEWER Civics... So Iv got some questions about them...

The Clutch seems to actuate very high in the pedal travel. The PO said he installed a new clutch along with the rebuilt motor... But the Clutch pedal seems to be telling me a different story.

Cold Starting, the engine revs up to a high idle. but will fluctuate between high and low idle speeds, slower and slower and slower until it settles down. Is this an ISV issue with these D15 Cars?

CV Popping when turning... This one is OBVIOUS... But will the ball joints pop too? I just wanna nail this down before its too late. It only pops at one or two degrees of turning, both going into the turn, and coming out of the turn.

Lastly, THIS THING IS AWESOME ON GAS!

welcome


post some pics

Hotwire wrote:Iv got a '95 EG Hatch. I'm fairly new to NEWER Civics... So Iv got some questions about them...

The Clutch seems to actuate very high in the pedal travel. The PO said he installed a new clutch along with the rebuilt motor... But the Clutch pedal seems to be telling me a different story.

Cold Starting, the engine revs up to a high idle. but will fluctuate between high and low idle speeds, slower and slower and slower until it settles down. Is this an ISV issue with these D15 Cars?

CV Popping when turning... This one is OBVIOUS... But will the ball joints pop too? I just wanna nail this down before its too late. It only pops at one or two degrees of turning, both going into the turn, and coming out of the turn.

Lastly, THIS THING IS AWESOME ON GAS!

Sounds like a cv shaft 100%. Your fast idle thermal valve could use cleaning. Take it off the throttle body/manifold and clean it out with motor spray. A high clutch pedal engagement is tough to tell. Was the pedal adjusted at all after install? Was the flywheel resurfaced?

Apexracing wrote:Sounds like a cv shaft 100%. Your fast idle thermal valve could use cleaning. Take it off the throttle body/manifold and clean it out with motor spray. A high clutch pedal engagement is tough to tell. Was the pedal adjusted at all after install? Was the flywheel resurfaced?

Im not sure if it was adjusted, Its a hydrolic Clutch setup, is there much adjustment with them on These? I am a VW guy threw and threw.. But winter here does NOT lend to safe driving with a 400hp 1.8t lol. Any how.. on the VW's there is little to no adjustment.

As for the surfacing of the plate... I doubt it.

Ill order up a pair of shafts today, Iv gotta call NAPA to see what the costs are, the local shop quoted me $100 each.. Which seems a little high, since Iv seen performance shafts going for $160 a pair on line.

Any insight is helpful, Thanks a ton!

PS : are there any common areas I should be looking for when it comes to maintenance of these cars? As in common rust areas, or parts that go often/out of the blue?

Thanks again.

The clutch master cylinder push rod has quite a bit of adjustment actually. Typical rust areas are the rear quarter panels and the rockers. Autozone usually has the best priced cv shafts, and they are life time warranty. No parts that randomly fail, typical wear items on cars this old are, ball joints, tie rod ends, motor mounts, wheel bearings. ect

OP so your saying the clutch ingages as soon as you push down or ingages a few inches of pushing down. sounds to me like its a new clutch and your not use to it. and for the idle thing it could be a few things.vaccume leak, air valve on the back of the mani. it is probly dirty or the spring thing inside has backed out and need to be re tightend. there are walk threws on how to clean it..

The clutch pedal only presses in an inch or so when the clutch is no longer engaged and is slipping. I then have like an other 12 inches before its to the floor. Same goes for engaging the clutch I release it till there is about an inch or so of movement left before the clutch engages.

Hotwire wrote:The clutch pedal only presses in an inch or so when the clutch is no longer engaged and is slipping. I then have like an other 12 inches before its to the floor. Same goes for engaging the clutch I release it till there is about an inch or so of movement left before the clutch engages.

try bleeding the clutch slave cylinder a few times(same procedure as brakes) If that does not work then try adjusting the push rod on the clutch pedal. There should be some good tutorials online just google search for them.

Ill check the procedure for for bleeding the clutch master, and the adjustment of the pedal. Thank you,

Iv ordered 2 new Cardens, which I will swap out this weekend... in the snow.. lol.

Other wise, the body of the car is in not too bad of shape. But I guess time will tell right?

The cleaning of the ISV will be handeled this weekend too I hope.

Thanks again guys.

just buy a new master on the trans. you can get at an outoparts store for like 15$ it could be leaking and not working or your fluid is dirty and needs a flush. or air in the lines. im guessing since its a new clutch it was never bled after instalation. its easy and will make a world of diff when properly bled.

egsedanguy wrote:just buy a new master on the trans. you can get at an outoparts store for like 15$ it could be leaking and not working or your fluid is dirty and needs a flush. or air in the lines. im guessing since its a new clutch it was never bled after instalation. its easy and will make a world of diff when properly bled.

It’s the slave cylinder actually. But yes it’s worth replacing honestly.

Don't replace both axles, just the bad one. If you look at them a lot of time it's obvious which is bad. The boot will be ripped and there will be axle grease everywhere.

I had the same issues with the clutch slipping after i replaced the master and slave cylinders. Its just adjusting the pin from the master to your clutch peddal. May take a few trys to get it where you want it and it does build pressure over time so you may want to set it a little bit lower than you like. Trial and error with this really but its easy!

Apexracing wrote:

egsedanguy wrote:just buy a new master on the trans. you can get at an outoparts store for like 15$ it could be leaking and not working or your fluid is dirty and needs a flush. or air in the lines. im guessing since its a new clutch it was never bled after instalation. its easy and will make a world of diff when properly bled.

It’s the slave cylinder actually. But yes it’s worth replacing honestly.