NEED IDEAS.....just looking quickly at these pictures

Technical Topics specific to the 2 dr. coupe body - NOT where you post pics/build specs of your car.
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NEED IDEAS.....just looking quickly at these pictures

By kaikohe
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 3:43 am #324586 look at these pictures and give me ideas for what needs to be done. If you cant tell i found a leak in a hose today when i was trying to see if it needed some coolant. I also replaced the spark plugs and wires. as well as the battery. it still is idleing pretty rough. but atleast its not stalling at every light.

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no lights on

By kaikohe
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 3:57 am #324589 no check engine lights on. It's a AT so its something new to me after working on a MT 89 CRX for about 10 years ago. so your help is greatly appericated.
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By kylenjdm93
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:30 am #324600
teal_dx wrote:If it is idling rough, I would replace the cap & rotor next. :thumb:

Is there a check engine light on?
.

I agree with teal_dx, I would go as far as pulling the cluster carefully and checking to see if there is even a check engine light bulb in there.

before you replace the cap and rotor, take it apart 3 bolts 8mm socket or a #2 Phillips screwdriver and see if the points in the cap have white on them or any kind of build up, use a piece of sandpaper and lightly clean them as well as the rotor, re install and see if it runs better, if this makes it run sound replace the parts with new ones..

also, if you have access to a spark checker, install it in cyl 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, see how the bulb illuminates if its super bright your probably ok, if they are dim check your grounds for bad connections. as the distributor relys on good grounds to produce good ammounts of spark to the cylinders.

(of course its better to use a spark measurement tool and compare your findings to the manual the above way is easy and the basic point of seeing how things are actually working for a DIY guy)

and of course the jack a** comment...

do a swap when you have the cash and time. unless you would like to save the old sohc!

doing an auto to manual conversion is relatively simple in our eg's, just have to cross some wires were the auto drive selector would be, and of course installing the wires for the clutch/start kill sensor too. :thumb:

hassport sells the auto to manual conversion mount for d, and b series engines. around 80 bux last time I check, if you go that far replace them all, every Honda ive seen has the rear mount of death, car jumps around when at low rpms barely moving along. jerking you back and forth.
rear mounts take all the abuse.

hassport rear mounts are wider than our factory mounts so plan on spending the extra 90 bux for they're t bracket.

good luck with the car! hope this solves your problem.
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By Apexracing
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:06 am #324605
kylenjdm93 wrote:
teal_dx wrote:If it is idling rough, I would replace the cap & rotor next. :thumb:

Is there a check engine light on?
.

I agree with teal_dx, I would go as far as pulling the cluster carefully and checking to see if there is even a check engine light bulb in there.

before you replace the cap and rotor, take it apart 3 bolts 8mm socket or a #2 Phillips screwdriver and see if the points in the cap have white on them or any kind of build up, use a piece of sandpaper and lightly clean them as well as the rotor, re install and see if it runs better, if this makes it run sound replace the parts with new ones..

also, if you have access to a spark checker, install it in cyl 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, see how the bulb illuminates if its super bright your probably ok, if they are dim check your grounds for bad connections. as the distributor relys on good grounds to produce good ammounts of spark to the cylinders.

(of course its better to use a spark measurement tool and compare your findings to the manual the above way is easy and the basic point of seeing how things are actually working for a DIY guy)

and of course the jack a** comment...

do a swap when you have the cash and time. unless you would like to save the old sohc!

doing an auto to manual conversion is relatively simple in our eg's, just have to cross some wires were the auto drive selector would be, and of course installing the wires for the clutch/start kill sensor too. :thumb:

hassport sells the auto to manual conversion mount for d, and b series engines. around 80 bux last time I check, if you go that far replace them all, every Honda ive seen has the rear mount of death, car jumps around when at low rpms barely moving along. jerking you back and forth.
rear mounts take all the abuse.

hassport rear mounts are wider than our factory mounts so plan on spending the extra 90 bux for they're t bracket.

good luck with the car! hope this solves your problem.


good info my rear mount on my ej is shot :thumb:
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By kylenjdm93
- Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:30 am #324614 i bought hassport mount kit for my old b16 eg coupe.

so glad i bought them, until my rear t bracket did not fit the damn mounts... so i purchased the rear t bracket from them and good to go
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thanks

By kaikohe
- Wed Jan 23, 2013 3:58 am #324730 thanks for the help and suggestions....... after i found and replaced the leaking water bypass hose. the check engine light came on......but i think it might be something else I will take a picture of that and post it here in a second. Like i said before I'm sorta new to working one this car and havent worked on a Honda for almost ten years. But this weekend when i have time i plan on taking the dizzy apart as suggested.
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Re: pictures of what im thinkin is wrong

By Punksz6
- Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:38 pm #324866 Image[/quote]

Hi, I hope we can help you sort this out. The wire in this pic is not connected to the VTEC solenoid. You could either find another plug at the Junkyard if possible or try and get the wire back in there.
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