Civic EG

Ok guys, thanks in advance for your time.

I have a 93EG with a B16A2. Since last week, my check engine light came on. At first, when the light came on my RPMs started going up and down between 0 and 1. Then after a couple of days I notice the the check engine light only comes on when my car is warm already. Then my car didn't turn on at all. I towed to my mechanic (I'm thinking of switching mechanics because this guy can't seem to be able to work on my car) he said he could read the code because my car is a 93, I told him the engine is from year 2000. So he read the codes and said that it was my distributor ( I changed this 2 years ago) and I was like "ok tell me how much it is and I'll take it there" so he said he found a place where they will do it for 125$ so I went there today and when I got there, they said they coudn't do it because my mechanic told them it was a year 93, and that they didn't have the distributor for my engine......... at this point Im driving my car with that check engine light on, and the car feels like it lost all it's power! I takes me forever to reach 20mph on a green light or after a stop. My RPMs is sitting at 0 and my car is overheating. When I try to floor it, it cuts off at 5 RPM. My question is, can it realy be the distributor? I thought that when a distributor goes bad, your car won't turn on at all! He also said that the check engine light was giving the code of my Air Senson. To add, I havent change my oil in 6 months, could this be a cause to this problem?

check your cel and post what codes its throwing here is a link that shows how

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=1558

eg_turbo_hatch wrote:check your cel and post what codes its throwing here is a link that shows how

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=1558

Ok I went there, and I'll try it out asap. One question though, I know this codes are for OBD1, would my car be OBD1 or OBD2? because the car itself is year 93 but the engine is 00.

your car should be obd1

Ok, so I checked the codes and I gave me

4
7
18

based on that link you gave me:

4 CKP - crank position sensor

7 TPS - throttle position sensor

18!!! there is no 18 on the list <.< what does that mean?

ya i cant find a honda CEL 18 anywhere. make sure your reading the code right...

alldatJUICE wrote:ya i cant find a honda CEL 18 anywhere. make sure your reading the code right...

Ok so I went and double check, and it's a 17

i had similar problems when my VSS went out. it caused weird idling problems and would make it stall out. i got one of the $20 ebay VSS's instead of the $175 OEM one. it seems to be doing fine.

alldatJUICE wrote:i had similar problems when my VSS went out. it caused weird idling problems and would make it stall out. i got one of the $20 ebay VSS's instead of the $175 OEM one. it seems to be doing fine.

I should start with that VSS before moving to the other problems hu? And another question, are all these sensors bad or are they reading something bad?

i would start by testin the sensor b4 replaceing them

but if have or can get a voltmeter
then you can test ur tps
what you do is get a safety pin and stick in the back of the middle wire on the connector then get your voltmeter and ground it at the battery and witht eh KEY ON ENGINE OFF(where your dash lights come on)
touch the safety pin wit the power probe of the voltmeter and you should read .5volts and then open the trottle wide open and you should read 4.4-4.5 volts, 5v max, if your reading someting diff then ur tps is bad and

if your vss went out then your speedometer wouldnt work
did he say it was the o2 sensor or your intake air temp sensor
and not changing your oil prob wouldnt affect any of this

and your ckp
you can try to find it. idk where it is on hondas
but take it off and clean it, cause its a magnetic senosr and after awhile
grease, drit and shit will build up on the sensor and make it give bad readings

94_jdm_ferio wrote:i would start by testin the sensor b4 replaceing them

but if have or can get a voltmeter
then you can test ur tps
what you do is get a safety pin and stick in the back of the middle wire on the connector then get your voltmeter and ground it at the battery and witht eh KEY ON ENGINE OFF(where your dash lights come on)
touch the safety pin wit the power probe of the voltmeter and you should read .5volts and then open the trottle wide open and you should read 4.4-4.5 volts, 5v max, if your reading someting diff then ur tps is bad and

if your vss went out then your speedometer wouldnt work
did he say it was the o2 sensor or your intake air temp sensor
and not changing your oil prob wouldnt affect any of this

and your ckp
you can try to find it. idk where it is on hondas
but take it off and clean it, cause its a magnetic senosr and after awhile
grease, drit and shit will build up on the sensor and make it give bad readings

Thanks for all your help. I will try and do all this asap. Now, my speedometer wasn't working sometime, it will jump a lot and sometimes it will work just fine. <.< I notice that when I hit a bump on the road it would stop working.

then your vss might be loose or bad
but ya no problem man

i try to help as much as i can

Ok, so I found out that the CKP is on my Distributor! I guess my mechanic was right. So now, do I really have to replace it?

get a VSS. mine was runnin all screwed up with it being bad.

what i posted at the time. was all resolved once i changed it.
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=9217&highlight=

if u replace the vss and its still actin up then i say replace the dizzy
cause if your ckp is bad then the computer wont be able to tell where TDC is and that will mess up alot of other things that use the input from the ckp..

but lets hope its the vss