Page 1 of 2
Denso or Toyo Radiator for OEM

Posted:
Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:47 am
by MG6
I want to find out what brand would you go with on OEM? One cost a little more than the other, so what would it be?
I don't know what brand I have currently on the EG, but my radiator cap say "Made in Korea" 1.1 (assume it is the pressure).
Just want to know as I want to find out what is the difference between the two.
Thank you!

Posted:
Thu Aug 27, 2009 3:59 am
by asianrob
you can go to the junker and pull out an OEM Dual core radiator out of a sedan. for cheep.
but anyways i think Denso is the OEM radiator for the hondas right?

Posted:
Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:11 am
by KingcoupeO
yea it is . i see people on craigslist gettin rid of all the time
check it out if you dont want it new.
either one is going to be ok though both good enough to be oem so you should be fine brotha

Posted:
Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:17 am
by MG6
Thank you for the reply. Reason why i am asking is to narrow down why my upper rad hose swollen like a balloon. But I think it is my switch (next to the thermostat house), as the fan doesn't kick on.
Also, it isn't overheating or anything like that, I so happen to notice it during my oil change and saw it. I am hoping my headgasket isn't on the last leg
So that is on the order, and bleeding the system with the change of hoses as well. Hope this will resolve my hose swollen .

Posted:
Thu Aug 27, 2009 6:40 am
by OmarG
Good luck man, and welcome to the site!


Posted:
Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:34 pm
by That One Dude
Radiator hose swollen like a balloon = soon to explode.
Get a new radiator hose before you venture into buying a new/used radiator. It's cheaper, and not a pain in the ass. Not that changing the radiator on a Civic is difficult...
If the fan isn't coming on, unplug the fan from its connector, and jumper it directly to the battery. If the fan turns on, check the fuse. If the fuse is good, check the relay by swapping it out with a known good relay (AC relay is the same as the fan relay).
If it still doesn't come on, change the fan switch. If that doesn't work, change the fan motor.
Start cheap.

Posted:
Fri Aug 28, 2009 9:03 pm
by chrono404
Before you swap out Radiator, Bleed your Cooling system. That should take care of the bubble.
A Quick check to see if its your Headgasket is to pull your dip stick and see if there is anything cloudy on it.

Posted:
Sat Aug 29, 2009 11:49 pm
by MG6
Thank you All.
The coolant was bleed already during the timing belt, water pump change (2 months ago).
I will rebleed the coolant, change the t-stat, and change both hoses (upper and lower). On top of that, I will change out the thermo switch as it wasn't working.
Note:
I did the paper clip trick and the fan does kick it, so it narrowed down to the switch so I will test it once I replace it and wait 20 mins to see if the fan kicks in during normal opt temp.
Thanks again all and will update everyone so if someone have the same problem like mines, they can do the same steps to find out the problem.

Posted:
Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:21 pm
by spoon honda
anyone using spoon radiator?

Posted:
Sun Aug 30, 2009 10:26 pm
by That One Dude
Spoon radiator as in the $1400 half width dual core? Or the $1600 full width dual core?
IMO, the Spoon radiator is way over priced considering you can get a Mishimoto for $300 or a Koyo for $200. Used for cheaper.
If you were to GIVE me one, I would rock that thing day and night, but it costs way too much for me to purchase one.

Posted:
Mon Aug 31, 2009 3:34 am
by Punksz6
Hey where in cali are u? I got a OEM Koyo rad at HAP in Rancho Corodova in Northern Cali for I think $110....I can't remember it was a couple years ago...Hopefully u get it all fixed up!


Posted:
Mon Aug 31, 2009 6:05 am
by asianrob
That One Dude wrote:Spoon radiator as in the $1400 half width dual core? Or the $1600 full width dual core?
IMO, the Spoon radiator is way over priced considering you can get a Mishimoto for $300 or a Koyo for $200. Used for cheaper.
If you were to GIVE me one, I would rock that thing day and night, but it costs way too much for me to purchase one.
i though they were 980 for a new one?

Posted:
Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:15 pm
by MG6
so i replaced the upper and lower hose, t-stat, t-stat sensor. Coolant is flush and bleed.
So i still can't get the fan to turn on. I will post another thread as this doesn't pertain to the rad or does it?
Question: What is the pressure on the rad cap do you have stamped on the top? I wonder will 0.8 better than 1.1 (currently what I have now).

Posted:
Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:30 pm
by id3379
Make sure your fuse to your rad fan isnt blown, that was the problem for me one day.

Posted:
Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:26 pm
by MG6
the fuse should be good as the paper clip test turned on the fan.