Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Thu Jun 26, 2014 5:05 pm #346768 Almost got all the old gasket off, brake cleaner and a razor blade works best but still a pita! Hopefully I'll be able to find the right socket today to take the head off, question! I'm getting the motor installed by a shop once I'm done rebuilding it, I'm using new arp studs and bolts and I heard you have to re torque them a few times. Will me putting the motor back together but just not tightening the head bolts be a waste of time? Wouldn't they have to take everything off again?

[teal_dx]

- Thu Jun 26, 2014 7:45 pm #346772 So you're putting the head on with oem head bolts and then taking the car and motor to a shop to install and the shop is taking the head off and putting it back on with ARP head studs?

If the motor isn't going to be fired or see compression, then just put the head bolts on hand tight since they'll be taken back out and replaced with ARP headstuds. Or better yet, just leave the head off and put plasitc on the block and head to keep them clean and leave the headgasket in the package.

And you're right, follow the specific re-torquing instructions on the ARP headstuds.

Do Not PM me your technical questions. Post them in the forum!
My 1992 SOHC Turbo Hatch
My Youtube Channel: 6th Gear Garage

- Thu Jun 26, 2014 8:12 pm #346775 No it has arp head studs now, I didn't know it until I went to take them off.
But I'm going to grab new ones and put them in. I'd rather change headgasket myself as shops overcharge! But if they need to re torque the studs I'm wondering if I should put the cams, cam caps etc back together. Id love if I could do the swap myself since my car is a shell. But I live in a building so limited to one parking spot. And would have to do the swap in one day cuz u wouldn't be able to leave parts and stuff out overnight

- Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:41 pm #346887 Well, if you know how to assemble an engine then do it all yourself. To do the swap, they don't need to take your engine apart. They're just going to prep the bay, put the new engine in, and wire everything up. As long as the engine will run and everything(harness, etc) is in good condition, they won't have any problems on your end.

I use those cute sockets for little things like seat bolts and such. Anything that's torqued down you need beefier sockets. Use a breaker bar to very slowly torque the bolts out. Maybe soak them in anti-seize, although it probably won't help much. You might want to do some Google research on how to properly untorque bolts, if you don't do it straight you'll destroy the threads or even break the bolt itself.

http://www.dansmc.com/socketdrives.jpg

Don't just get a 3/4th socket and end up using a baby ratchet with an adapter either, because then your ratchet will break. haha

- Tue Jul 01, 2014 4:38 pm #346895 Thanks for your help guys! Finally got the head off,
Just waiting to get some arp studs and bolts, was bored so decided to sticker bomb my spark plug cover:D





Also since I'm grabbing a gates timing belt and water pump I was thinking of getting blue cams? Does anyone know if the eBay ones are good enough? I do want to boost this next year

- Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:00 pm #346951

Well, if you know how to assemble an engine then do it all yourself. To do the swap, they don't need to take your engine apart. They're just going to prep the bay, put the new engine in, and wire everything up. As long as the engine will run and everything(harness, etc) is in good condition, they won't have any problems on your end.

I use those cute sockets for little things like seat bolts and such. Anything that's torqued down you need beefier sockets. Use a breaker bar to very slowly torque the bolts out. Maybe soak them in anti-seize, although it probably won't help much. You might want to do some Google research on how to properly untorque bolts, if you don't do it straight you'll destroy the threads or even break the bolt itself.

http://www.dansmc.com/socketdrives.jpg

Don't just get a 3/4th socket and end up using a baby ratchet with an adapter either, because then your ratchet will break. haha

Sorry should have explained it better! I was told I had to re torque the new head bolts a few times after a it's running at normal temp. But most people said you don't have to as long as they are torqued to spec the first time. So I didn't want to put everything back together for the shop to take everything off again to re torque them.

- Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:14 pm #347164 Cleaned up the block today, still waiting to get timing belt and water pump

- Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:17 pm #347165 Just curious what would happen if I clean and wipe the pistons

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:43 pm #347683 anyone know if there is a diy for changing valve seals? i might as well do them since the head is off. im hesitant to do it as i dont want to mess things up. aim also thinking of putting itr cams in. will they run fine on a stock b16 or will i need a tune?!

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 5:53 pm #347685 Finally finished a rim lol can't wait to see what they look like! Getting my buddy to clear coat them at his shop

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:10 pm #347687 That looks good! I thought about doing that to mine too.

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 6:17 pm #347688

That looks good! I thought about doing that to mine too.

what? the meshies? or valve cover

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 7:26 pm #347691

That looks good! I thought about doing that to mine too.

what? the meshies? or valve cover

Meshies! I have a set on my car that need TLC.

- Tue Aug 05, 2014 9:10 pm #347692

That looks good! I thought about doing that to mine too.

what? the meshies? or valve cover

Meshies! I have a set on my car that need TLC.

I'll never do a set of rims again lol takes a lot of time and my finger still hurts from sanding them lplol

- Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:44 pm #347927 Anyone know how I can take the crank pulley off with the engine sitting on a tire?! The flywheel keeps turning when I try to loosen the bolt. I want to get this motor done! Just need to change t belt and water pump