Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:35 am #133478 B18b1-civic eg/eh
Skunk2 intake maifold
skunk2 megapower exhaust manifold
2000 si transmission.

Right now im at the point where i want just a lil power, and i was thinking about bolting on a supercharger, i dont really want to go turbo because thats to common where im at and i just spent 700 on my exhaust manifold.And im more of a torque person.i just want some advice on which supercharger should i choose from, ive seen jrsc, and vortech ive heard bad and good about both, i just need a lil more advice, i atleast want to achive over 200hp.i was also wondering what type of pistons should i run?and aslo would it be wise to swap out the ls trans???? since it has longer gear ratio.Here are my plans on what else im going to do to the b18b1.and i aslo plan on goin past the rev limit....... like 8 grand or so

light weight crank shaft
port and ploish head
A head package(retainers,springs,etc...)
Camshafts
hondata 2s00


let me know what you guys think thanks!

- Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:32 am #133483 What you have planned out is a lot of money.

Like a lot.

Shitruiners Inc.

- Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:48 am #133721 Yeah lol,mainly I'm just looking for a strong cruz car.you think with all those mods I'm at least hitting 250 hp????, oh and I wanna run about 8-10 psi.I think about 6 grand is my limit.

- Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:41 am #133779 I would just start with a supercharger kit, tuned on chip management (Crome, etc.) and not Hondata. Anything you could gain from cams, retainers, springs, and a port and polish you can get (and then some) by adding fuel and spinning that supercharger faster.

Who needs revs when you've got a supercharger.

Shitruiners Inc.

- Tue Jul 28, 2009 8:51 pm #133888 yeah, i wanna go with a centrifigual supercharger though, cause i have a skunk2 intake mani, what you think?

- Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:31 am #133921 i have the same plans as u but i would suggest you start with internals. pushing any boost at high rpms is risky. play it safe so u dont pay for it when you least expect it. with cams, valve springs, and retainers your pretty well off and wont have to be so cautious.

single slammer = one cam of fury.


si = supercharger inside

- Wed Jul 29, 2009 5:28 am #133937 hmmmm ok, i remember i was talking to a guy from skunk2 and me and him was chatting about the supercharger they came out with for the s2000, and he said that he's gunna buy it a mount it to he's ride, i cant remember what ride he's putting it on.but he seem very helpful and cool.what supercharge you think i should get?

- Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:36 am #163079 man im oldschool and you couldnt go to a car show in the 90s without seein a jackson racing supercharger. they biult the most complete sc setup for a d series anyone had seen. for that i trust them and the reviews ive heard are overwhelmingly good. good quality, easy to install, instant boost. it all depends on what u want.

single slammer = one cam of fury.


si = supercharger inside

- Mon Dec 21, 2009 5:34 am #163123 Don't get a lightweight crankshaft. It's more or less pointless unless you plan on spinning 10k rpm. Just get the rods, pistons, and crankshaft all balanced to each other if you plan on boosting and spinning 8k.

I would also recommend a twin scroll supercharger. Much more efficient, lower charge temperatures, higher power output per rpm (both engine and blower rpm). Centrifugal supercharger won't give you nearly as much low end torque as a roots type or a twin scroll type blower.

Try to keep the stock compression ratio of 9.2:1. It's perfect for boost. You could get away with 9.5:1 if you wanted, especially since you're hopefuly going to build the bottom end properly. Check out www.theoldone.com for pistons. Great selection, especially for the B-series.

Hi, I'm John. I'm a hacky sackin', rock climbin', scuba divin', aircraft mechanic.

- Fri Dec 25, 2009 8:51 pm #164092 do you a reference as far as building the block for 10 psi? brands?

- Thu Dec 31, 2009 12:53 am #164858 Get a block guard. Golden Eagle makes one. Under 10psi, you might not experience any cylinder walk, but if you want to spin 8k+, it couldn't hurt. You have the better of the non-VTEC blocks at your disposal, so don't worry too much about the wall thickness unless you plan on boring it out.

Forged pistons and rods are obviously a must under any boost. The LS rods can handle 200whp, but not for long.

Use OEM rod and main bearings. They have the oiling hole. ACL race bearings don't, and unless you're willing to go through the trouble of drilling and chamfering a hole, spend the money and go for OEM bearings.

Personally, I'd use a lower block girdle similar to what the B18C1 has. Only problem there is that you have to use a B18C1 oil pan. windage tray, and pickup tube. It's not really a problem to use those, but finding them in good shape is not always an easy chore unless you buy new OEM. www.theoldone.com has a good girdle machined out of high tensile strength billet alluminum.

I won't touch cam choices, I'm not familiar with the boost cams.

OEM gaskets, obviously. I go to the dealer for all my parts (even though I work at AutoZone) because you just can't beat the quality of original equipment parts.

ARP = necessity. That should be an absolute given. Headstuds, main and rod bolts. You can use the flywheel and pressure plate bolts too, but they're not absolutely necessary. I only used them because I know a guy who had them laying around and he wanted less than new OE bolts. Again, you don't need to replace these bolts unless you want to. They're metric grade 12.9 and take a huge amount of stress to break them.

If I missed something, someone else can pick it up.

Hi, I'm John. I'm a hacky sackin', rock climbin', scuba divin', aircraft mechanic.

[chrono404]

- Thu Dec 31, 2009 3:25 am #164893

Forged pistons and rods are NOT obviously a must under any boost. The LS rods can handle 300whp, And take it, Forged Rods/pistons is a good idea for going over that goal though,.

Fixed that for you.

Ls rods are the same strength as b16 rods which are good for 300 hp. You WILL want Arp Rod bolts, Especially if your going to spin over 6800 RPPM.

2017 Chevy BoltEV DD |2001 Honda CRV SE

- Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:02 am #166200 why b18c1 lower block girdle?

- Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:06 am #166201 like chrono44 said, for what you , a stock block can handle that all day long. One of our customers is @ 300whp on his B18b and has been for the last 6 years. Bone stock. No need to spin the motor that high either you wont be making power up there.