- Fri Nov 19, 2010 2:08 pm
#223604
Okay, I have here is the most straight-forward guide i found on the net jus tought i'de share:)>>enjoy
I am only going to discuss Honda motors here, since that's what pertains to this site. So only take this info as good on a Honda.
So you want to go turbo. Good start, but first you need to work out some details. For example, a turbo is like an engine- there are a bunch of them and they are all different. Garrett is generally the preferred make of turbo (nearly all good turbo kits use them and most OEMs use Garrett turbos). In other makes, picking the turbo off of a different model car is a good start (for example many 240SX owners will start with a Silvia turbo when turbo'ing their KA's). But the only Honda that uses a turbo (non-Garrett) is the K23 in the Acura RDX (bikes and F1 cars do not count). This turbo is a very high-tech piece and has computer controlled variable displacement to prevent turbo lag. Say what? Let's put it this way: you can't afford it, and even if you can, you won't be able to make it work right.
No, you need to scrounge around some other import for your turbo. The best donors are by far the DSMs (Mitsubishi, Eagle, Dodge, Plymouth). The first and second gen Eclipse (Talon, Laser) use a turbo that is perfect for any Honda 4-cylinder. Since the engines are all nearly the same displacement, the turbos will be a perfect match. Nissan also provides a good source of used turbos, especially from the Silvia's SR20DET. The later S15 provides a great Honda turbo, however S13 and S14 Silvia owners tend to snap them up for their own engines. They are also fairly expensive. The S13 and S14 engines use T25 turbos which will make a lot of quick torque, but are low on power. This is still a good place to start considering you can get one of these for as little as $100.
The most important thing to do when looking for your turbo is to figure out what engine it is coming off of. You want to find an engine that has the closest displacement to your own. If you overshoot too much, then you will have nasty turbo lag. If you undersize, you will outrun the turbo and won't be making as much power. Neither will kill your engine, but they will kill your fun.
For anyone with a D or B16, no, almost nobody turbos something that small from the factory. The cool thing is that any 1.8 or 2.0 liter turbo will give you an awesome match and will be more than adequate. Plus you will get a hair more power than any 1.6-sized turbo without too much lag. You can overcome the lag with some bolt-ons anyway. Generally these are in the T28 range. T3/T4 hybrid turbos are also very popular, but tend to be a bit laggy on a stock motor. They only come into their own when you have fortified the bottom end of your engine and can crank up the boost. For more in depth information on turbo sizing, look here: Turbo Sizing Tech - Honda Tuning Magazine
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... index.html
Now that you've picked the turbo, you need to plumb it. For N/A cars, there is generally no OEM piping that will fit (Most Nissans and a few DSMs are notable exceptions). If you are cheap, you can fabricate your own. Generally, you want to start with 3-inch piping at the intake (pre-turbo), 2.5-inch after the turbo, and 2-inch after the intercooler. Aluminum is the preferred material for piping. It looks cool, is strong, won't corrode and is easy (read: cheap) to shape. Silicone connectors to connect the pipes together are the simple method, but if you can do or afford it, welding the junctions is better in the long run. Just be prepared for a lot of work when you want to upgrade the internals down the road. There are other methods of connecting the piping, but they are more expensive. When buying a kit, look for piping that is short and straight as possible. any bends should be long and sweeping. Tight bends contribute to back pressure and reduced power. Long piping adds to turbo lag, since the turbo also has to pressurize the air in the piping. Less air means quicker spool up.
To keep your turbo running correctly, you will want a blow-off valve and a boost controller. The boost controller is obvious, since it allows you to dial in exactly how much boost you want. Don't skimp here, since a cheap boost controller will read more boost on a cold day and less on a hot day. Cheap boost controllers can also leak boost and cause an overboost. This may put holes in your block if you are not careful. Go electro! Electronic boost controllers can be programmed to ramp up boost, maximize boost, and the best can offer scramble boost (scramble boost is a temporary increase in boost pressure for passing. Think NOS but with no bottle). As for the BOV, it is not, contrary to poular belief, there to make you feel all manly. A BOV releases the extra turbo pressure when you let your foot off the gas. When the throttle plate closes, the turbo is still spinning from inertia, pumping in boost. The boost has nowhere to go. The BOV is a "back door" to let the pressure out. Otherwise it would slam around inside the piping and probably put a hole in something. Whether it's the intercooler, the piping, the turbo, or even the engine, is all up to luck and the quality of the parts you put in. And if you tune the BOV for the ricey 'pssht,' then you will end up with turbo lag. Don't let all the pressure out at once if you want to actually win races with your new setup. The preferred setup is a recirculation valve, which is simply a BOV that dumps back into the system. The extra tubing is not pressurized under boost, but when the BOV goes off, the tube adds extra volume to the intercooling system. This reduces turbo lag because the piping is still pressurized (but much lower than full boost and not enough to damage the turbo). On MAF equipped cars (like newer Hondas), this also improves fuel mileage since the incoming air is measured before the turbo. Dumping the air downstream results in gas wasting backfires. This may look cool, but adds to emissions, fuel consumption, and turbo lag. On heavily boosted engines, this can also burn exhaust valves as the fuel/air mixture is still bruning as it leaves the engine. In a recirculation setup, the turbo system is closed to the outside environment at all times, so the engine is always seeing the correct amount of air. Recirculation valves are a bit more expensive than a typical BOV and takes more work to install but the rewards are very high.
On the exhaust side, you need some kind of manifold to hook your turbo to. You can either build (or have built) a custom tubular manifold (expensive), or buy a pre-built manifold (not so expensive). If you are lucky and/or good, some stock header sections can be made to mate with a turbo (the D16 manifold from the Civic VX is one such manifold). The key thing here is if you are cheap and buy a pre-built manifold, buy one that is made of cast iron. Tubular manifolds look cool and offer more power, but are prone to failure. The tubular manifolds that are not failure prone are very expensive (they are worth the price of admission. On some engines a properly designed and built tubular manifold can be wroth 30 hp!). Iron is heavy and ugly but does not break and is also quite cheap. If you haven't already, now is also the time to put on a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust for your car. Your turbo will want to breathe, and stock exhausts don't do that very well.
Keep the cat converter too. You will fail emissions without it and you will only sacrifice a few horsepower by leaving it on. A good environment is something we all have to pitch in for. Besides it's always cooler to say your car makes such and such horsepower "through the cats."
Okay, you have the turbo in and plumbed. All that extra air is no good without fuel to help it burn. Starting from the back, it would be wise to invest in a new fuel pump. They have some kind of flow rating (usually Liters-per-hour) and if you order online, they will usually tell you how much horsepower it will support. For a well-done turbo install, expect to be making about 100 more horsepower. These days the aftermarket standard seems to be the Walboro 255 lph pump. In a bind, you can source from a different car. If you have an old Civic, an Integra GS-R pump can usually hekp support a little bit of boost. Next, you will need a new fuel pressure regulator, preferrably rising-rate and adjustable. After that, you will want some fuel injectors. To size them properly, use use this article: http://www.hondaclub.com/forum/articles ... ctors.html. Matching fuel injectors to your power level is important. Huge fuel injectors tend to produce a lumpy idle as they can not open and close quick enough to deliver a low volume of gas. This is wasteful and hurts your low RPM performance and torque. A little bit of headroom is never a bad idea though. A bad tank of gas is all it takes to pop a perfectly happy motor.
Speaking of bad gas, make sure you fill up with high-octane gas before you tune the car for the first time. 87-octane will make your car very unhappy with its newfound ability to add more air.
Next up: electrons. As smart as computers are, they are really stupid. For example, your ECU can't tell that you are now throwing in a lot more air and fuel. So at this point you will need an ECU retune. This is where it would be nice to buy a programmable EMS, go to a dyno and ask the tuner there to tune your car. Once he's seen the color green, he (or she) will be more than happy to make sure your motor does not go boom. Before this though, you will want a few more parts. Colder spark plugs will be extremely helpful. If you are doing a K-Series turbo, you will probably need a new MAF or a way to fool the MAF in to thinking there is less air then there is (older Hondas used MAP which is a little more forgiving for turbo power). As far as new gauges, oil pressure and temperature, coolant temperature (the stock gauge does not count), air/fuel ratio, and boost are good ones to start with. Fuel pressure too. Wire these up (hehe enjoy) and you will instantly know when you are about to be SOL.
These days, gauges are becoming obsolete. The new standard is digital displays and dashboards. Modern race cars replace the factory gauge cluster with a digital display that can monitor RPM, speed, oil pressure and temperature, water temperature, transmission and differential temperatures, EGTs...anything you can wire in. Best of all, with modern CAN-BUS and OBDII intelligence, many of these parameters can be read straight from the ECU. ARK makes a great piece of equipment called the MFDII. On a car like an S2000, it's simply a matter of plug and play. A good review of the MFDII can be read here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles ... ating.aspx: Keeping it From Overheating. ARK also makes the MFD which takes more wiring, but can be used on pre OBDII cars. The MFD and similar units are great because they simplify wiring, lower weight (an average gauge with wiring adds nearly 2 pounds to the car), and are much easier to read. A dashboard full of analog gauges is best left to the old muscle car farts. The MFD is also comparable in price to buying all those gauges.
And some people complain about modern wiring. I say bring on the future!!!
Turbo timers are a nice luxury to have, but it's mostly not worth the cost. Just sit around for a minute to let the oil cool off. Although if you have just been driving around normally and not like a meth-head, then you won't need to let the oil cool. Again, if you have the money, go for it.
The next thing is all the little nit-picky things that will make this a lot harder than you would think. All turbos have some kind of oil line and many also have collant lines. These need to be plumbed. An inlet and outlet bung will needed to be added to your oil pan. Where exactly is up to your motor. Ask someone who can actually see your car and give you the right answer, not me. You will also want a good clutch so that your burnouts are actually from your tires and not from your transmission. You will also want an LSD so that both of your tires will spin. And you will want better tires so that you can actually drive the car when you are done tearing up some parking lot pavement. At this point, you probably won't need driveshafts, but if you want to put them in, go ahead. You will probably want new brake pads and coilovers won't hurt, either. Neither are needed to make car run, but both will help tame this new beast.
Turbos add lots of heat (heat=power, sad fact of life), so you may want a new. This depends on where you live and what car you have. A Civic will need a radiator. A Prelude probably won't. Drive around and decide for yourself. As for the intercooler, make sure you don't block your entire radiator with it. Intercoolers come rated with how much power they can support. Don't go too big, as an intercooler that's excessively large will contribute to turbo lag. You may also need to increase the airflow into your engine bay for cooling. More grille area, cooling ducts, and vented hoods are all good solutions. As a side note, if your car came with shrouded electric cooling fans from the factory, leave them be. The only reason to remove them would be making room for more radiator, forcing the use of something thin like a Flex-A-Lite. OEM fans are very efficient and cost you nothing. Best of all, good radiators are compatible with them. Saves some cost on your end anyway.
Tips: Most people boost the H, D, and B-Series of Honda's engine family. All three of these will run fine on 9 psi of boost if you have good tuning and your parts support it. Unless you really skimped out somewhere, your parts will hold up fine, so it really depends on who is doing the tuning. You can boost the K, but it has a higher compression ratio and is not as boost-frinedly. I would say 7 psi max, but since I have no experience with the K personally, I don't know. Best to err on the safe side. If you want to boost anything other than these four, 7 psi is also about as high as you want to go on stock internals. 8 psi might work, but remember each psi is doubling the amount of air your engine sucks in normally. 1 is a huge number here. If you want to throw the money at it, Hondas best can easily withstand more. But doubling your horsepower will make most people plenty happy.
The biggest tip I (or anyone for that matter) can give is to just do your homework. This is the real world, there is no ONE right answer. See what other people have done, compare setups, ask questions, and ALWAYS take internet chat with a grain of salt. If you ask smart questions and accept answers humbly, people are very willing to help you out. Experts are happy to teach people out...provided people are willing to listen. So be smart, do your research, and keep an open eye for good deals and new tech.
Speaking of doubling your horsepower, learn to drive this thing before you do any more to it. That much power can get you in a lot of trouble (and I don't mean with Johnny Law. Newton has a wrath all his own). So drive it carefully at first until you get a feel for what you car can now do. Then by all means beat the ish out of it.
The last thing to remember is that you can avoid all this by just buying a prefabbed turbo kit. But where's the fun in that?
By popular request, here is a summation of everything you should, or will need.
Mandatory:
-Turbo (duh)
-Turbo exhaust manifold
-Turbo piping
-Boost Controller
-Intercooler (possible to turbo without it, but you're going to be slow)
-ECU tune
-Fuel injectors
-Fuel pump
-Blow-off Valve (BOV) or Bypass valve (much harder to plumb, but more efficient)
-Oil temperature, water temperature, boost, air/fuel, and fuel pressure gauges
-Cooling fans and/or radiator
-Colder spark plugs (1 or 2 heat ranges colder than stock)
Helpful Parts:
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
-New tires
-Bigger exhaust
-Coilovers
-New brake pads
-Vented hood
-Oil Cooler
-Stage 1 Clutch
-LSD
-Driveshafts
DISCLAIMER: The contents of this article are not necessarily the official views of, nor endorsed by, the owner of HondaClub(com).
I am only going to discuss Honda motors here, since that's what pertains to this site. So only take this info as good on a Honda.
So you want to go turbo. Good start, but first you need to work out some details. For example, a turbo is like an engine- there are a bunch of them and they are all different. Garrett is generally the preferred make of turbo (nearly all good turbo kits use them and most OEMs use Garrett turbos). In other makes, picking the turbo off of a different model car is a good start (for example many 240SX owners will start with a Silvia turbo when turbo'ing their KA's). But the only Honda that uses a turbo (non-Garrett) is the K23 in the Acura RDX (bikes and F1 cars do not count). This turbo is a very high-tech piece and has computer controlled variable displacement to prevent turbo lag. Say what? Let's put it this way: you can't afford it, and even if you can, you won't be able to make it work right.
No, you need to scrounge around some other import for your turbo. The best donors are by far the DSMs (Mitsubishi, Eagle, Dodge, Plymouth). The first and second gen Eclipse (Talon, Laser) use a turbo that is perfect for any Honda 4-cylinder. Since the engines are all nearly the same displacement, the turbos will be a perfect match. Nissan also provides a good source of used turbos, especially from the Silvia's SR20DET. The later S15 provides a great Honda turbo, however S13 and S14 Silvia owners tend to snap them up for their own engines. They are also fairly expensive. The S13 and S14 engines use T25 turbos which will make a lot of quick torque, but are low on power. This is still a good place to start considering you can get one of these for as little as $100.
The most important thing to do when looking for your turbo is to figure out what engine it is coming off of. You want to find an engine that has the closest displacement to your own. If you overshoot too much, then you will have nasty turbo lag. If you undersize, you will outrun the turbo and won't be making as much power. Neither will kill your engine, but they will kill your fun.
For anyone with a D or B16, no, almost nobody turbos something that small from the factory. The cool thing is that any 1.8 or 2.0 liter turbo will give you an awesome match and will be more than adequate. Plus you will get a hair more power than any 1.6-sized turbo without too much lag. You can overcome the lag with some bolt-ons anyway. Generally these are in the T28 range. T3/T4 hybrid turbos are also very popular, but tend to be a bit laggy on a stock motor. They only come into their own when you have fortified the bottom end of your engine and can crank up the boost. For more in depth information on turbo sizing, look here: Turbo Sizing Tech - Honda Tuning Magazine
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech ... index.html
Now that you've picked the turbo, you need to plumb it. For N/A cars, there is generally no OEM piping that will fit (Most Nissans and a few DSMs are notable exceptions). If you are cheap, you can fabricate your own. Generally, you want to start with 3-inch piping at the intake (pre-turbo), 2.5-inch after the turbo, and 2-inch after the intercooler. Aluminum is the preferred material for piping. It looks cool, is strong, won't corrode and is easy (read: cheap) to shape. Silicone connectors to connect the pipes together are the simple method, but if you can do or afford it, welding the junctions is better in the long run. Just be prepared for a lot of work when you want to upgrade the internals down the road. There are other methods of connecting the piping, but they are more expensive. When buying a kit, look for piping that is short and straight as possible. any bends should be long and sweeping. Tight bends contribute to back pressure and reduced power. Long piping adds to turbo lag, since the turbo also has to pressurize the air in the piping. Less air means quicker spool up.
To keep your turbo running correctly, you will want a blow-off valve and a boost controller. The boost controller is obvious, since it allows you to dial in exactly how much boost you want. Don't skimp here, since a cheap boost controller will read more boost on a cold day and less on a hot day. Cheap boost controllers can also leak boost and cause an overboost. This may put holes in your block if you are not careful. Go electro! Electronic boost controllers can be programmed to ramp up boost, maximize boost, and the best can offer scramble boost (scramble boost is a temporary increase in boost pressure for passing. Think NOS but with no bottle). As for the BOV, it is not, contrary to poular belief, there to make you feel all manly. A BOV releases the extra turbo pressure when you let your foot off the gas. When the throttle plate closes, the turbo is still spinning from inertia, pumping in boost. The boost has nowhere to go. The BOV is a "back door" to let the pressure out. Otherwise it would slam around inside the piping and probably put a hole in something. Whether it's the intercooler, the piping, the turbo, or even the engine, is all up to luck and the quality of the parts you put in. And if you tune the BOV for the ricey 'pssht,' then you will end up with turbo lag. Don't let all the pressure out at once if you want to actually win races with your new setup. The preferred setup is a recirculation valve, which is simply a BOV that dumps back into the system. The extra tubing is not pressurized under boost, but when the BOV goes off, the tube adds extra volume to the intercooling system. This reduces turbo lag because the piping is still pressurized (but much lower than full boost and not enough to damage the turbo). On MAF equipped cars (like newer Hondas), this also improves fuel mileage since the incoming air is measured before the turbo. Dumping the air downstream results in gas wasting backfires. This may look cool, but adds to emissions, fuel consumption, and turbo lag. On heavily boosted engines, this can also burn exhaust valves as the fuel/air mixture is still bruning as it leaves the engine. In a recirculation setup, the turbo system is closed to the outside environment at all times, so the engine is always seeing the correct amount of air. Recirculation valves are a bit more expensive than a typical BOV and takes more work to install but the rewards are very high.
On the exhaust side, you need some kind of manifold to hook your turbo to. You can either build (or have built) a custom tubular manifold (expensive), or buy a pre-built manifold (not so expensive). If you are lucky and/or good, some stock header sections can be made to mate with a turbo (the D16 manifold from the Civic VX is one such manifold). The key thing here is if you are cheap and buy a pre-built manifold, buy one that is made of cast iron. Tubular manifolds look cool and offer more power, but are prone to failure. The tubular manifolds that are not failure prone are very expensive (they are worth the price of admission. On some engines a properly designed and built tubular manifold can be wroth 30 hp!). Iron is heavy and ugly but does not break and is also quite cheap. If you haven't already, now is also the time to put on a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust for your car. Your turbo will want to breathe, and stock exhausts don't do that very well.
Keep the cat converter too. You will fail emissions without it and you will only sacrifice a few horsepower by leaving it on. A good environment is something we all have to pitch in for. Besides it's always cooler to say your car makes such and such horsepower "through the cats."
Okay, you have the turbo in and plumbed. All that extra air is no good without fuel to help it burn. Starting from the back, it would be wise to invest in a new fuel pump. They have some kind of flow rating (usually Liters-per-hour) and if you order online, they will usually tell you how much horsepower it will support. For a well-done turbo install, expect to be making about 100 more horsepower. These days the aftermarket standard seems to be the Walboro 255 lph pump. In a bind, you can source from a different car. If you have an old Civic, an Integra GS-R pump can usually hekp support a little bit of boost. Next, you will need a new fuel pressure regulator, preferrably rising-rate and adjustable. After that, you will want some fuel injectors. To size them properly, use use this article: http://www.hondaclub.com/forum/articles ... ctors.html. Matching fuel injectors to your power level is important. Huge fuel injectors tend to produce a lumpy idle as they can not open and close quick enough to deliver a low volume of gas. This is wasteful and hurts your low RPM performance and torque. A little bit of headroom is never a bad idea though. A bad tank of gas is all it takes to pop a perfectly happy motor.
Speaking of bad gas, make sure you fill up with high-octane gas before you tune the car for the first time. 87-octane will make your car very unhappy with its newfound ability to add more air.
Next up: electrons. As smart as computers are, they are really stupid. For example, your ECU can't tell that you are now throwing in a lot more air and fuel. So at this point you will need an ECU retune. This is where it would be nice to buy a programmable EMS, go to a dyno and ask the tuner there to tune your car. Once he's seen the color green, he (or she) will be more than happy to make sure your motor does not go boom. Before this though, you will want a few more parts. Colder spark plugs will be extremely helpful. If you are doing a K-Series turbo, you will probably need a new MAF or a way to fool the MAF in to thinking there is less air then there is (older Hondas used MAP which is a little more forgiving for turbo power). As far as new gauges, oil pressure and temperature, coolant temperature (the stock gauge does not count), air/fuel ratio, and boost are good ones to start with. Fuel pressure too. Wire these up (hehe enjoy) and you will instantly know when you are about to be SOL.
These days, gauges are becoming obsolete. The new standard is digital displays and dashboards. Modern race cars replace the factory gauge cluster with a digital display that can monitor RPM, speed, oil pressure and temperature, water temperature, transmission and differential temperatures, EGTs...anything you can wire in. Best of all, with modern CAN-BUS and OBDII intelligence, many of these parameters can be read straight from the ECU. ARK makes a great piece of equipment called the MFDII. On a car like an S2000, it's simply a matter of plug and play. A good review of the MFDII can be read here: http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles ... ating.aspx: Keeping it From Overheating. ARK also makes the MFD which takes more wiring, but can be used on pre OBDII cars. The MFD and similar units are great because they simplify wiring, lower weight (an average gauge with wiring adds nearly 2 pounds to the car), and are much easier to read. A dashboard full of analog gauges is best left to the old muscle car farts. The MFD is also comparable in price to buying all those gauges.
And some people complain about modern wiring. I say bring on the future!!!
Turbo timers are a nice luxury to have, but it's mostly not worth the cost. Just sit around for a minute to let the oil cool off. Although if you have just been driving around normally and not like a meth-head, then you won't need to let the oil cool. Again, if you have the money, go for it.
The next thing is all the little nit-picky things that will make this a lot harder than you would think. All turbos have some kind of oil line and many also have collant lines. These need to be plumbed. An inlet and outlet bung will needed to be added to your oil pan. Where exactly is up to your motor. Ask someone who can actually see your car and give you the right answer, not me. You will also want a good clutch so that your burnouts are actually from your tires and not from your transmission. You will also want an LSD so that both of your tires will spin. And you will want better tires so that you can actually drive the car when you are done tearing up some parking lot pavement. At this point, you probably won't need driveshafts, but if you want to put them in, go ahead. You will probably want new brake pads and coilovers won't hurt, either. Neither are needed to make car run, but both will help tame this new beast.
Turbos add lots of heat (heat=power, sad fact of life), so you may want a new. This depends on where you live and what car you have. A Civic will need a radiator. A Prelude probably won't. Drive around and decide for yourself. As for the intercooler, make sure you don't block your entire radiator with it. Intercoolers come rated with how much power they can support. Don't go too big, as an intercooler that's excessively large will contribute to turbo lag. You may also need to increase the airflow into your engine bay for cooling. More grille area, cooling ducts, and vented hoods are all good solutions. As a side note, if your car came with shrouded electric cooling fans from the factory, leave them be. The only reason to remove them would be making room for more radiator, forcing the use of something thin like a Flex-A-Lite. OEM fans are very efficient and cost you nothing. Best of all, good radiators are compatible with them. Saves some cost on your end anyway.
Tips: Most people boost the H, D, and B-Series of Honda's engine family. All three of these will run fine on 9 psi of boost if you have good tuning and your parts support it. Unless you really skimped out somewhere, your parts will hold up fine, so it really depends on who is doing the tuning. You can boost the K, but it has a higher compression ratio and is not as boost-frinedly. I would say 7 psi max, but since I have no experience with the K personally, I don't know. Best to err on the safe side. If you want to boost anything other than these four, 7 psi is also about as high as you want to go on stock internals. 8 psi might work, but remember each psi is doubling the amount of air your engine sucks in normally. 1 is a huge number here. If you want to throw the money at it, Hondas best can easily withstand more. But doubling your horsepower will make most people plenty happy.
The biggest tip I (or anyone for that matter) can give is to just do your homework. This is the real world, there is no ONE right answer. See what other people have done, compare setups, ask questions, and ALWAYS take internet chat with a grain of salt. If you ask smart questions and accept answers humbly, people are very willing to help you out. Experts are happy to teach people out...provided people are willing to listen. So be smart, do your research, and keep an open eye for good deals and new tech.
Speaking of doubling your horsepower, learn to drive this thing before you do any more to it. That much power can get you in a lot of trouble (and I don't mean with Johnny Law. Newton has a wrath all his own). So drive it carefully at first until you get a feel for what you car can now do. Then by all means beat the ish out of it.
The last thing to remember is that you can avoid all this by just buying a prefabbed turbo kit. But where's the fun in that?
By popular request, here is a summation of everything you should, or will need.
Mandatory:
-Turbo (duh)
-Turbo exhaust manifold
-Turbo piping
-Boost Controller
-Intercooler (possible to turbo without it, but you're going to be slow)
-ECU tune
-Fuel injectors
-Fuel pump
-Blow-off Valve (BOV) or Bypass valve (much harder to plumb, but more efficient)
-Oil temperature, water temperature, boost, air/fuel, and fuel pressure gauges
-Cooling fans and/or radiator
-Colder spark plugs (1 or 2 heat ranges colder than stock)
Helpful Parts:
-Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
-New tires
-Bigger exhaust
-Coilovers
-New brake pads
-Vented hood
-Oil Cooler
-Stage 1 Clutch
-LSD
-Driveshafts
DISCLAIMER: The contents of this article are not necessarily the official views of, nor endorsed by, the owner of HondaClub(com).
Last edited by jred on Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"If you have poo, fling it now"!.
![[smilie=notworthy.gif]](./images/smilies/notworthy.gif "notworthy")
thanks but i can't take credit for the write up,cuz i saw this on HondaClub(com). and jus copy and paste it..lol. but i will take the credit for copy and pasting. 
