Civic EG

**GO TO PAGE 6 TURBO INSTALLED!!!**

so, I bought a pretty basic kit. its far from the best, but slightly better than your standard cheap ebay kit.


the plan is to keep the car running how it is till i get all the other components for boost (tapped oil pan,fuel management/components,etc. etc.)

since my motor its self is internally stock, we're not shootin for any crazy hp goals. gonna get it tuned to lowest psi possible to make around 200whp. the car will be used as a "nice day" cruiser and occasional drag strip assassin!

the kit itself isn't too bad. all the oil lines/fittings are Earls Performance, and the intercooler/manifold are better looking than most ebay kits. the charge pipes are mandrel bent and has the BOV flange. as i go, i'll upgrade parts on it as needed/wanted.

I need suggestions on what to do with the ECU(for tuning!). what are my options here for what i have in mind? do i need to look into bigger injectors? suggestions on any of the remaining components i need to buy are much welcome. remember, we're working with a stock B18B1 with a low-boost goal (6-7lbs).


the kit...

i would find another obd1 ecu and chip it and keep ure stock ls ecu a virgin just in case

^ I like that idea.

I plan on spending as much as it takes to get it tuned right. should i be looking at like a phearable ECU for my setup? will i need a different MAP sensor? which program would be best to run this relatively simple setup?

Tuning: Hondata s300. Hands down the best on the market right now.

Fuel: You will absolutely need higher flow injectors. Perhaps a set of RC 570cc/min, if not larger. The stock fuel rail and filter will be more than big enough to supply the fuel necessary for 200whp. Get a Walbro 255lph fuel pump. Adjustable fuel pressure regulator wouldn't be a bad idea, but it's not absolutely necessary.

Boost levels: Do not go higher than 10psi. You will regret it in the long run. I was looking into boosting my 'Teg as she stands, but I don't have the money for a rebuild if it blows up under 10psi. The stock intake manifold should be plenty good enough for 200whp, but it wouldn't hurt anything to upgrade to a Skunk2, or Edlebrock VictorX with a slightly larger throttle body. Professional Products makes a good unit. 65mm for $75 on Summit Racing, IIRC. Hell you could stick with the stock IM and get a GSR TB, 62mm, for cheap on Craigslist.

Whatever you do, don't be surprised if you don't hit 200whp. I'm not saying you won't, but on the off chance....

I don't know a whole lot about turbos and such, so I won't go into the nitty gritty on that part, but I've seen good numbers on a stock GSR with a T3/TO4. 324whp on 93 pump gas type good.

thanks for the input ^^


really think that big on the injectors eh? i guess the last thing you want is it starved for fuel. i was definitely planning on getting the walbro and i already have a FPR. do you need a resistor for the injectors on OBD1? or are they just plug n play? thanks all

If you go with DSM 450s you need a resistor box, but not if you go with the RC injectors.

And yeah, if you don't want your engine to run leaner than 13:1 AFR, you will want a good supply of fuel.

Even 13 is pretty lean. Try to keep it low 12s.

You don't need Hondata for a 200whp daily.

You should get the 450s, it's PLENTY of injector for your application. Even with the simplest grasp on electronics wiring a resistor box is damn easy.

As for boost, go as high as you want provided you're on the dyno and monitoring things and retuning when you're adjusting. Don't listen to "Do not go higher than 10 psi".

Stock FPR will be fine.

have a buddy who is god at tunning that had a bone stock ls runnin on 16 lbs and was at the track 2 times a week.....yes it did bend a rod BUT only because of a simple mistake of his own....car ran for 4 months like that no probs until he personally made a mistake....made 386 whp and was driven HARD so you'll be perfectly fine with your plans

^ I love hearin stuff like that


I'm hoping for half that power. I'm by no means trying to get as much as i can out of this engine. from talking to others, i've heard of similar setups making 200+ UNDER 10psi

I just don't have a lot of faith in the stock cylinders of the B18B1. I'm not saying it can't be done, but I have seen B1s blow the cylinder wall out under 10psi.

What I should have said was make sure you have a good tune, and monitor everything.

I figure 13:1 under WOT would be good. I have a DSM friend running 11:1 at idle, 12:1 under 50% throttle off boost, 11:1 50% throttle in boost, and 13:1 at full boost of 25psi. I know DSM and Honda are two different animals under boost...

And yeah, I just did the math over on the RC website. The 450s would be plenty.

i have some DSM 450's...and i'm MAXED out at 234whp with injector duty at 100% at 11.0AFR under boost and ~13-13.5 at idle and decel. but i'm rockin a d-series at 13psi

the 450's would be great for your application, there is plenty of DIY's for those to wire up, i would get a p28 or the like and get a chip kit from moates and solder in the kit yourself (if you know how) and get tuned on crome gold. i know that most people opt for hondata but if you have a good tuner and crome gold can be reliable and gain good power. i have mine tuned on crome gold, it has a good rev cut and launch controls

just my thoughts tho

p.s. that looks like a pretty nice kit....props

That One Dude wrote:I just don't have a lot of faith in the stock cylinders of the B18B1. I'm not saying it can't be done, but I have seen B1s blow the cylinder wall out under 10psi.

What I should have said was make sure you have a good tune, and monitor everything.

I figure 13:1 under WOT would be good. I have a DSM friend running 11:1 at idle, 12:1 under 50% throttle off boost, 11:1 50% throttle in boost, and 13:1 at full boost of 25psi. I know DSM and Honda are two different animals under boost...

And yeah, I just did the math over on the RC website. The 450s would be plenty.

wow that is a lean AFR in boost i know that most of the d series hondas at least run around 11:0 in full boost but i'm sure some of that is a safety factor...

Yeah, he's lean as fuck. His wideband shows 17:1 at idle now. We were messing around with his tune yesterday on the dyno over at Jotech Motorsports, and managed too eek up from 640awhp to 680awhp by tweaking the spark and fuel maps just a hair.

He's so lean at idle because he is in vacuum at idle. His engine is actually sucking air through the turbo instead of the turbo forcing the air into the manifold. It's a weird setup to be honest. Not to mention, this guy is nuts.

I'm gonna leave the chipping to the tuner. found out for about $600 i get my ecu chipped with a program and dyno tuned.

Blundar is definitely a legend in tuning. Anyone who know's Honda tuning should know him.

$600 chipped AND dyno tuned is cheap as hell, too. Jump on that dude.