D16Y8 question?

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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D16Y8 question?

By CivicEG
- Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:37 am #76792 Ok guy I want to know if any of you have ever done a full D16y8 swap on a EG hatch? If so what ECU did you use (P28 Chipped?) let me know asap and what you did to make it run right. Thanks in advance :)
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By CivicEG
- Sat Nov 01, 2008 8:02 am #76794 Any help would be great guy and girls.
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By Faded_Milano
- Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:48 am #76803 I know teal_dx did a head swap to a d16y8, but I don't know of any full swaps. It should be pretty much the same unless you want to have it obd2.
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By teal_dx
- Sat Nov 01, 2008 2:54 pm #76808 it is the same, only a few minor differences. Injector clips are different. You can put in OBD1 injectors to get around this, or do it the hard way and solder obd2 injector clips into your obd1 engine harness (assuming you're using an obd1 engine harness)

There's a knock sensor above the oil pressure sensor, ignore it. obd1 cars dont use them.

There's a crank fluctuation sensor. Ignore it, same reason.

Ignore the second o2 sensor on the y8 exhaust, same reason.

All mounts will work.

You will have to extend the IAT wiring. OBD1 has this sensor on the back of the IM. OBD2 has this sensor on the intake tube.

Use a P28 :thumb:

Also use a distributor from an OBD1 D15b7 on the y8 head (z6 won't fit) or else you'll have to hard wire the obd1 engine harness/y8 dizzy to work with the OBD2 dizzy.
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By CivicEG
- Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:33 pm #76821
teal_dx wrote:it is the same, only a few minor differences. Injector clips are different. You can put in OBD1 injectors to get around this, or do it the hard way and solder obd2 injector clips into your obd1 engine harness (assuming you're using an obd1 engine harness)

There's a knock sensor above the oil pressure sensor, ignore it. obd1 cars dont use them.

There's a crank fluctuation sensor. Ignore it, same reason.

Ignore the second o2 sensor on the y8 exhaust, same reason.

All mounts will work.

You will have to extend the IAT wiring. OBD1 has this sensor on the back of the IM. OBD2 has this sensor on the intake tube.

Use a P28 :thumb:

Also use a distributor from an OBD1 D15b7 on the y8 head (z6 won't fit) or else you'll have to hard wire the obd1 engine harness/y8 dizzy to work with the OBD2 dizzy.


Ok all that you listed I have done kind sir. Another question I had the P28 chipped on the y8 specs, but runs slugish and im thingking that the timing on the engine itself is off (could this be a valid reason?)
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By suspendedHatch
- Mon Nov 03, 2008 4:22 am #76988 Don't use a P28. The ignition timing maps are completely different. The Y8 is a much more efficient head so it needs much less ignition timing. The torque also peaks lower than the OBD1 generation engines that the P28 was tuned for.

How was it chipped to Y8 specs if no one is capable of looking at an OBD2 calibration? You need to get your individual car on the dyno and tuned in person. Chips are designed to get your money and not much else.

Ignition timing is absolutely critical. It's not like fuel where the O2 feedback does a pretty decent job of masking it if the calibration is off (though not ideal). If the timing is too retarded, the piston runs away from the flame front which is a waste of power and causes the engine to run quite hot. If it's too advanced, it fights the piston on the way up. If you tune it for MBT with a margin of safety then you'll be getting the most of your engine's potential w/out cooking it, pinging it, or blowing it up.
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By CivicEG
- Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:03 am #77105
suspendedHatch wrote:Don't use a P28. The ignition timing maps are completely different. The Y8 is a much more efficient head so it needs much less ignition timing. The torque also peaks lower than the OBD1 generation engines that the P28 was tuned for.

How was it chipped to Y8 specs if no one is capable of looking at an OBD2 calibration? You need to get your individual car on the dyno and tuned in person. Chips are designed to get your money and not much else.

Ignition timing is absolutely critical. It's not like fuel where the O2 feedback does a pretty decent job of masking it if the calibration is off (though not ideal). If the timing is too retarded, the piston runs away from the flame front which is a waste of power and causes the engine to run quite hot. If it's too advanced, it fights the piston on the way up. If you tune it for MBT with a margin of safety then you'll be getting the most of your engine's potential w/out cooking it, pinging it, or blowing it up.


Thank you so much you are the only one that has given me a great answer. Ill just have to get it tuned then thank you so much man. :woot:
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By teal_dx
- Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:15 am #77107
suspendedHatch wrote:Don't use a P28. The ignition timing maps are completely different. The Y8 is a much more efficient head so it needs much less ignition timing. The torque also peaks lower than the OBD1 generation engines that the P28 was tuned for.


That's why you live up to your title :thumb:

I ran a P28 on my y8 mini-me for years and never knew this. Now that you mention it, it makes really good sense!
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