D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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By -paul
#215490 It's recently been rebuilt with OEM parts + ACL bearings / piston rings. I've done over 6k miles on it. It's had a new thermostat with the build.

Now a temperature issue has arrised. I normally have this issue after engaging vtec a few times. Over time it's become worse but I'll explain how it all started.

When I get to a set of traffic lights or stop with the engine running, the temp gauge rises. I start driving again and then it goes back down to the normal half way point. So I got home, pulled up and quickly popped the bonnet. The temp gauge started to rise and I noticed the radiator never kicked in.

This was promising in the sense I think I've found the prob, rad or rad switch. Next morning I ran the engine, let it idle to temp, and the fan kicked in, so I thought it's got to be the rad switch. At this time the fault was intermmitant. Got the rad switch replaced, coolant topped up and bleed, and idled fine and the rad kicked in as it should. Great, it's all sorted. Took it for a spin, pulled up, and watched the temp gauge and rad. The temp gauge rised to 3/4 mark, was about to turn the engine off to prevent overheating issues, then the rad kicked in.

It did this on 3 occasions. I drove home with frustration. Now last night I took it for another spin and now the temp gauge was rising even whilst driving. I kept having to turn the engine off to cool and restart my journey like 6 times to get home.

When I did get home, I opened the bonnet again whilst the engine was on, temp gauge was rising quickly, checked the rad, it wasn't on as expected... So i turned it off and called it a night. It was dark so I couldnt really check the coolant level properly, but it seemed to be ok.

However what I did notice was the rad cap was mildly warm, cold more than anything, the top rad hose ( the short hose from the head to the top of the radiator) was VERY hot, as expected ( sort of) but the long hose from the bottom of the rad to the back of the engine was a LOT cooler. Seemed like there was a lack of circulation.

I'm really hoping this isn't a head gasket fault!?! Clearly there's an issue with the radiator side of things though.

Any ideas people? Apologies for the essay, thought the more detail of the problem, the better understanding you guys would have.

Thanks in advanced,
Paul
User avatar
By ghskid06
#215496 hello again.

Im no expert on honda cooling systems, but im fairly certain if it were a head gasket issue it would have been noticable right away. The only real way that i could see for that to be a problem is if the gasket is blocking ports, since you have 6k miles on your motor i dont see how that could be true. I would start by popping off both hoses and stick a hose in your inlet to make sure water is flowing freely through your block. And then do the same to your radiator.


Good luck with it man, cooling systems can sometimes be the start to a long list of problems, hopefully thats not the case for you.
Last edited by ghskid06 on Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By -paul
#215497 Hi :)

The only reason why it may be a head gasket was that I read on teal's head gasket change and it's not always noticeable unless you drain the coolant/oil and see if you can see a oily mist in the coolant.

Which I think I'll do, gives me an opportunity to do what you have said. Is it actually ok to hose water through the block like suggested?
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By ghskid06
#215498 thats sometimes the best way to find a problem. Naturaly you wouldnt want to put it back together and run it full of nothing but hose water. For the simple reason that water alone over time corrodes (not to mention freezing problems and less cooling property) but its not going to hurt anything for a test.

Didnt realize that you were having thoughts that your gasket was leaking. I guess it never hurts to check.
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By -paul
#215501
ghskid06 wrote:actually sir i found you another source.

http://www.essortment.com/all/flushcarsradia_rfjd.htm

good luck :thumb:


Legend! Will be definitely trying this and see if this helps. Thanks for your help!

Please, if there are any other possibilities as to why I'm having these problems, please pass on your knowledge people!

Thanks again ghskid06!
By AutoXCivic
#215537 Water pump? If the coolant isn't circulating properly, it would seem that the part that circulates it could be the culprit.
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By -paul
#215567 Yeah, have bled the system, also all pumps were changed with brand new ones with the build.

Maybe I'll replace all the coolant hoses and flush the rad and see what happens. Hmm.
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By eg84dr
#215569 same typeof thing happened to me
buy a new thermostat and a new rad cap
i couldnt figure mine out for a fews weeks and by the time i did i had warped the head and blew the head gasket so be carefull how long you drive it
User avatar
By -paul
#215604 Yeah I've been careful with it. It's almost got to the 'H' zone a few times but have switched off and allowed it to cool down a bit. I'm hoping I haven't done anything to the gasket.

So the problem disappeared after you replaced the rad cap and thermostat?

I might order a Spoon set.
By Butterzz
#215614 I took my thermostat out completely to allow constant circulation of coolant, and it's still getting warm. My fan also isn't work, so I'll update once I have that.

You said you replaced the headgasket already during your build? Is it possible that you put it on upside down and it's blocking fluid from passing to where it's supposed to? I know they only go on one way, but if you haven't done one before it would be an honest mistake.
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By -paul
#215621 The full build was done professionally. I've done over 6,000 miles and this problem has just arised. The fan works, like the first time I start the engine from cold and let it warm up. But it's late when it kicks in, the temp gauge rises over half way then it kicks in.

After going for a drive and then park up and idle, the temp gauge rises and rises and the fan doesn't come on at all. So I have no choice but to switch off to prevent the engine from overheating.

The system has been bled, a new rad switch fitted but hasn't cured the fault. Thermostat was new with the build, as was the water and oil pumps. Only thing not replaced was the rad itself.

Hmm..
By AutoXCivic
#215628 Maybe a lower temp thermostat ... so that it opens earlier.
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By ghskid06
#215897 figure it out?