D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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By beerys95lx
#232037 ok why i asked is because the honda oil (really moble 1) is a synthetic blend and i drove home and to work and back no problems.
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By Ajax1989
#232040 yo wont have any probs unles you run a wayyyy diff weight
if u accently ran 10w30 not 5w30 its not gonna hurt
but running a wayy diff wight can and prob hurt ur motor
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By beerys95lx
#232133 ya i know that i just here for some peole about problem changing oils so i thought i'd ask
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By goodyearrr
#232152
94_jdm_ferio wrote:yo wont have any probs unles you run a wayyyy diff weight
if u accently ran 10w30 not 5w30 its not gonna hurt
but running a wayy diff wight can and prob hurt ur motor


But so many different companies have given me different recommendations for oil use. My local car parts store has a book that says i could use either: 5w 30 PART systhentic (Standard honda recommendation) , 5w 40 Fully synthetic (Castrol edge recommendation or Mobil new life 0w 40.

As my civic is a little 1.3 i've not been afraid to try out loads of diffrent oils. Ive tested both the mobil new life 0w 40 and castrol magnatec 5w 30 and as a personal preference i liked the mobil new life. But now i've bought another different oil castrol edge 0w 40 which i'll be putting in tommorow.

Overall conclusion it must be down to preference surely?
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By pandapoo4u
#232158 i look at it this way
[all prices are based on a 76522 area code] on advaceautoparts.com

Advance Auto Parts 5W-30 Motor Oil (1 Gallon)
$10.99
Castrol GTX 5W-30 Conventional Motor Oil (1 Gallon)
$13.99
Mobil1 European Car Formula 0W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil (1 qt.)
$7.99 x4 = $31.96
Royal Purple SAE 5W30 Motor Oil (1 qt.)
$8.49 x4 = $33.96




now if your running a performance motor spend the money to keep the performance up...

if its still stock stay normal 5w 30 and save some money...

but this is just my opinion...
Last edited by pandapoo4u on Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By Ajax1989
#232161 oil is oil

and dont use what moblie 1 or castorl says to use
they didnt build our motors, honda did, so if honda says use this
use it, now wat brand u use is all up to wat floats ur boat

when it comes down to it
oil is oil
use wat honda says to use
and use what ever brand floats ur boat
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By goblin
#232573 i've heard from a friend. his buddy runs a mitsu lancer turbo. he use only cheap oil. but he changes the oil once a month.. even tho the millage is under the recommended service cycle. he said " if the oil in the motor is keep new/fresh. the motor runs at its best" what you guys think...
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By pandapoo4u
#232583
suhaimi-ibrahim wrote:i've heard from a friend. his buddy runs a mitsu lancer turbo. he use only cheap oil. but he changes the oil once a month.. even tho the millage is under the recommended service cycle. he said " if the oil in the motor is keep new/fresh. the motor runs at its best" what you guys think...


yes and no a clean engine is a good engine

but a civic is no evo...

performance and longevity are two different things...

each person needs something different

a car thats in stop and go traffic all day needs the oil changed more than one that's driven on the freeway


The point of engine oil is primarily to stop all the metal surfaces in your engine from grinding together and tearing themselves apart from friction whilst transferring heat away from the combustion cycle. Engine oil must also be able to hold all the nasty by-products of combustion, such as silica (silicon oxide) and acids in suspension. It cleans the engine of these chemicals and build-ups, and keeps the moving parts coated in oil. Finally, engine oil minimises the exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at higher temperatures. It does all of these things under tremendous heat and pressure.



Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
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By goblin
#232585 i havent got the $$ to put expensive oil in my engine. does it really make a different to use expensive oil.. does it feel instantly? over time ?
mine just use normal oil... BTW.. does good oil have lighter color? some say there recycle engine oil.. does darker color mean bad??
By Sabes
#233089 sythetic oil goes right down to the molecular structure of the oil. Synthetic oil is built with smaller molecules thus allowing superior lubrication to a motor with tighter tolerances than what would be had from regular old dino juice. When talking about oil in terms of racing what is important is the zinc content. This is what protects your rotating assembly under extreme circumstances when oil is pushed out of where it needs to be. Guys a lot of these answers are pretty dull/vague. If you want a good answer hit up google. You could spend the rest of your life reading though. If you really want to know more, time to go to university and take chemical engineering. There is a difference and it takes years in university to properly understand and depict the differences.

Due to synthetic oil being a "finer" oil, that is why people claim excessive leakage out of seals after switching to synthetic. There is a reason manufactures recommend switching before the 100 000km mark. Your tolerances have been broken in with an oil that requires larger gaps then sythetic. Keep in mind this is all on the micron scale. Not important as much on our 400 horsepower go-karts as much as it is a 5000 horse funny car or an indy car in extreme endurance situations.
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By goblin
#233144 damn.. its getting kinda confuse been googeling this thing for week . the truth is now i'm using 20W-50 elf oil. when i bought this car 5 years back the mileage is 300,000 ++ kilometer. i just wondering is i could up a notch.. say using semi Synthetic oil.. oil with smaller viscosity number. say 10w 30.. BTW its tropical here , so no need worry winter. is Shell helix 10W-40 ok?
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By Fada Blayne
#233565 lol i work @ a BMW/Porsche Dealership and so i get "free" oil changes. ive been using Mobil synthetic 0w-50 for months now on my motor and i do beat on it ocassionally. I say this non synthetic to synthetic is myth because even though i know its not good for the engine ive been low on oil and all that a random gas station may carry is some crappy brand conventional oil and i had to unfortunately mix it. that was @ least 3mths ago and my car is still running perfectly fine
By Sabes
#234888 for fada blane

You cannot see the effects of what you have done. Just because it still runs perfectly fine does not mean anything. My one civic has half a million kilometers on it and it still runs "perfectly fine". It is not a myth. It is why super tight tolerance race cars run synthetic. Have to ensure that the oil still gets into the clearances.

for everyone else running xW-50 or xW-40 oil, you do not need that oil for your little civics unless you are producing some serious heat. Google what those two numbers mean and then google what your civic needs. I am no professional engineer so I don't want to start going into shit that I am not educated in.
Hit up google. don't get to overwhelmed. Just understand the basics. cheers guys. Hope I have somewhat helped :)

In all honesty though all you need is simple 10W-30 regular oil for mild to moderate power levels. and then a 5W-30 or possibly 0W-30 if you live in cold or really damn cold winter climates. Don't worry about buying high dollar dino juice. Don't neccessarily buy the 5 dollar jug. Buy whatever brand name is on sale. Don't buy the dirty cheap, discount no name oil, and remember, regular oil and filter changes conquers all and change your oil after hard abuse, it breaksdown with high heat seen from a track. Don't even worry about the filter, just dump oil and put new in after tracking or drag strip hot laps.
KISS(keep it simple stupid)