Civic EG

I have a automatic DD 1993 honda civic dx, I noticed that the whole car would shake vigorously even harder when I put it into D4. I thought it was a misfiring issue so I replaced my spark plugs and spark plug wires, but the problem still persist. My mounts look fine, and my alternator has no problems, what am i forgetting to do, btw oil and transmission fluid have been checked. thanks any help will be greatly appreciated p.s I noticed that only when i start up my car in the morning that, theres a small clicking noise coming from the engine, which goes away after 30 secs.

the ticking is more than likely your valves cuz its winter and its cold so your engine is cold when it starts and really go over your engine mounts because they can look good but still be out

Ticking can be exhaust leak or the car is in need of a valve lash adjustment, which is the easiest/cheapest maintenance with the biggest impact on your engine performance that no one ever does.

Jumper the ECU, adjust the ignition timing, make sure the RPM is within idle speed spec.

How would I be able to check the idle spec if I dont have a rpm meter, and How do I jumper the ecu

hey, i bought my sis a 95 coupe that was auto.
the car was sitting for a while and when i started it and took it for a spin it had a rough idle and shook alot in drive.
it would even be worse when you turn the a/c on even stall out.

i thought it was some sort of alternator test... i was wrong
turns out there was no compression in the #1 Cyl.
anyways pulled the old head off and the half the valve was cracked off!

replaced the head and she runs like new.
hope you dont have the same issue but get a compression test done

Ic I will do that this week, hopefully that wont be the problem, but if it is. itll be a B**** to do

not really. i picked up a D15 head for 50$ and a new gasket too.
if you have A/C and P/S its a bit more work.

but the head swap is simple.
if you need help with anything else let me know.

aiite, thanks man appreciate the help, Ill prolly do a compression test this weekend hopefully.

polyej2 wrote:How would I be able to check the idle spec if I dont have a rpm meter, and How do I jumper the ecu

You mean a tachometer? You can buy a meter that has a diagnostic tach and connect it to the blue wire on the diag plug or at the distributor.

You can jumper the ECU using a spade terminal, a paper clip, or a loop of wire in the 2 pin connector in the green sheath near your ECU.

the old b7 heads in the 92 to 95 were bad for burning valves... ive seen several do that...

I did a compression test and turns #200, #205, #35, #195, so now I have to take off my head, what do u guys think could be the problems

number cylinder vavles could be pooched.
have you pulled it off yet?

it may even be the head gasket?

i have to drive it 200 miles before I can get it fixed, what would u guys recommend I do, some people tell me to disconnect my injector, but I'm not sure about that.

not sure i would risk driving it.
buttttt if you had to and your sure its not your head gasket i would keep an eye on your oil and on the engine temp.

when i had the car with the broken valve i drove it for 2 weeks before i even did anything about it.
it drove but it just seemed sluggish.