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URGENT help with head bolt issue.....

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:34 am
by Classiccarsrule85
well i was stepping it up slowly 14-22-36 and when i was going to the final torque of 49 i was going then pop! now the bolt wont tighten down it threads alittle but nothing like it should its stripped out im sure this happened to me before when doing a mini me to my old hatch and i got so frustrated i sold the project but this car i cant sell i need to figure out a way to fix it without taking it out and now its only in bolt #1 right now the center one closest to the fire wall...i also want to protect the other from this happening what should i do please help need to know asap if i should start tearing it down to swap the engine now or what....

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:47 am
by Fada Blayne
Buy a rethreading kit and rethread it.

Same thing happened to my boys header bolts recently. We rethreaded the messed up ones and now they str8

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 1:55 am
by Classiccarsrule85
wouldnt that mean id need a bigger bolt?

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:06 am
by poorman type-r
I will talk to my friend he has a kit to fix that exact problem. Its specifically for a B series and cost him 400 definitely worth it though.

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:06 am
by 92civic_vx
i would pull the head off and try to get a tap and die set with the thread of the bolt and clean all the bolt holes out re-thread them and make sure all of the metal shavings are out of the holes before putting head back on. and use new head bolts.

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:13 am
by deschlong
I believe there's an aftermarket company that makes head bolts that can be re-used ... this really isn't my bag, but I do recall seeing this before. Seems like a worthwhile option ... after you get this current crummy situation sorted out. :(

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:22 am
by That One Dude
If you get a Heli-coil kit, you won't need a larger diameter bolt. You will drill out the old threads, tap the hole to be the same size as the outer diameter of the Heli-coil, and BAM! you have a rethreaded head bolt hole that is stronger than the aluminum threads that used to be there.

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 3:28 am
by Classiccarsrule85
thanks all for the help but i guess for peace of mind and whatnot im just going to say fuck it and do an engine swap going to the junkyard tomarrow to pop an engine out im just frustrated as hell right now but ohhh well shit happens but at least this way just gotta drop the engine in and call it a done deal only issue is gotta get it done by this saturday :x and now im selling shit cheap just to get money for the car it sucks....but has to be done and thankfully its for my g/f and not some other person wouldnt be putting this much effort in for anyone else lol....

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 2:48 pm
by poorman type-r
If you are going to spend the money to get a new motor, why not just take it to a shop and have them fix it for you bro. It wouldn't be hard for someone that knows what he's doing.

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 2:54 pm
by deschlong
Yeah, seems like pretty extreme measures! PS. I think there's still a ODB-0 ZC DOHC up here at the yard. :)

PostPosted: Wed May 25, 2011 5:33 pm
by undeadone069
i actually went through the same thing with my tensioner pully bolt. had no threads left. this was like 3 days ago. i had the tap for the bolt. so i tapped it then it worked like a charm without buying another bolt.all i did was screw the tap in with my ratchet till it bottomed out then backed it out i ran a magnet in it to get out excess shavings and then screwed the shoe in.

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 3:07 pm
by Stank.EG6.Stay.Nasty
$200 for a junkyard block or $50 for tap and die set??

That is the question

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 4:00 pm
by Classiccarsrule85
already fixed bought a whole engine for 200 and swapped it in didnt feel like tapping the block as i felt it would just happen again in the other holes