Civic EG

So I just had my headgasket fixed, no longer losing coolant or anything like that. Still burning a lot of oil. . .

My main problem is that when I go to accelerate in my 94 ex 5spd, sometimes if I press the gas pedal too much the car jerks and decides it just wants to keep the rpms where they were. If I let off the gas a bit and barely depress the pedal, the engine regains power and continues accelerating like nothing happened. It is sporatic, not constant. I DO have a hard time starting it in the morning. It has started to need 5 or 6 attempts and even then it BARELY starts.

Any ideas? My CEL is on but I don't have a reader for it and most places I called only have readers for 96 or newer vehicles.

Thanks guys,
Struggling, frustrated, poor as fuck college student

I guess I should clarify, I have done some research and looked in my haynes manual, and I think it could be a few things:

-Spark plugs/wires?
-Fuel system faulty somewhere?
-Distributor?

I just want to get the most bang for my buck in terms of my first fix attempt, seeing as how this will deplete my bank account to exactly 0

best bang for you buck is to diagnose the issue and figure what is causing it. then fix it.


dont throw parts thinking thats the issue. if you check everything over and make sure its good you will find your issue. it takes time tools and knowledge

to check your codes jump the 2 pin connector above your ecu with a paper clip.

http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=1558&highlight=cel

OK so 92civic_vx I actually posted this and then thought it was silly for me not to try this so I did exactly that last night and got a code 41. The O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold.

Could that be it? My CEL has been on for over 3 months but the jerking and stumbling started only about 2 weeks ago.

Thanks for the responses guys!

if you are under 2k rpm and give it more than half throttle does it stumble? kinda sound like 2 step. my car was doing this and my dizzy was dying. replaced the dizzy and all the stumbling went away.

If the ECU tells you the o2 sensor is bad, then I'd replace the o2 sensor asap. The o2 sensor tells the ecu how much fuel to give your motor. With a bad o2 sensor, you're most likely running too rich. Doing this over a long period of time can cause damage to other components.

teal_dx wrote:If the ECU tells you the o2 sensor is bad, then I'd replace the o2 sensor asap. The o2 sensor tells the ecu how much fuel to give your motor. With a bad o2 sensor, you're most likely running too rich. Doing this over a long period of time can cause damage to other components.

. That what I will do first.

Thanks for all your replies guys. I'm planning on replacing the dizzy, spark plugs and wires, and o2 sensor once the freaking government sends me my check

Unless you guys know where to find all those for less than 3 bucks

I'll let you guys know if I have anymore problems, and I'll post on here if the problem is fixed by the proposed fixes

Thanks a million

So I have an update for you all!

I have replaced the o2 sensor and the spark plugs/wires and it was still giving me all the same symptoms, except it did seem to run better, was more powerful, and was exhibiting the symptoms in a less severe manner. The spark plugs looked great, so no issues there!

So I took the cap of the dizzy off, and it was HORRENDOUS. The rotor is also pitted and a dark brown color and almost non-existent. I bought a new cap and rotor, but here's my issue:

I can't figure out how to get the rotor off. . . the Haynes manual says to take the locking pin out but I can't get to it? Any pics to help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S- The coil looked fine, so I think just a new cap and rotor should do the trick.

Thanks fellas!

newbie101 wrote:I can't figure out how to get the rotor off. . . the Haynes manual says to take the locking pin out but I can't get to it? Any pics to help would be greatly appreciated.

There is a screw holding the rotor in place. You have to pull the distributor off of the car so you can turn the shaft to get to the screw. It's on the side of the shaft and you have to rotate it to gain access. Unscrew it, pull on it (It may be stuck if there is any surface rust), replace (only goes on one way) and put it back on the car.

Be sure to mark exactly where the bolts are sitting on the distributor when you remove it so when you put it back you wont have to set the timing. Or you could just re-time it, it's not hard. The key on the shaft on the back of the distributor is offset and will only go onto the cam one way, and be careful not to pinch the O-ring.

Thanks for the quick response, Leppy!

Some stuff I've seen while searching for articles on this topic suggest that there are only two ways to put the cap on, properly timed or 180 degrees off. Is that true? Because that would make it pretty easy, 50/50 shot of getting it right the first time

you dont have to take the dizzy off.

take the cap off and you will be able to access the rotor screw by turning the engine. ive never had a problem with leaving the car in gear with the ebrake off and tugging forward on the car little by little till the screw is lined up where it can be removed

newbie101 wrote:Thanks for the quick response, Leppy!

Some stuff I've seen while searching for articles on this topic suggest that there are only two ways to put the cap on, properly timed or 180 degrees off. Is that true? Because that would make it pretty easy, 50/50 shot of getting it right the first time

When I took my dizzy apart yesterday (B18C) there was a notch in the shaft where the rotor would only go on one way. I think D-series are the same way. Teal_dx did a DIY write-up in the links under Misc ( http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?p=223990 ) that will help you out.

Putting it on 180 degrees is hard to do. If you look at the key on the back of the dizzy, and the notches in the cam, you'll notice they are offset to the side slightly. If you put it on, and the bolts are hard to line up, you did it wrong and are 180 out. TRUST ME, you will break the keys on the dizzy clean off if you manage to get it in backwards.

TrailerTrash wrote:you dont have to take the dizzy off.

take the cap off and you will be able to access the rotor screw by turning the engine. ive never had a problem with leaving the car in gear with the ebrake off and tugging forward on the car little by little till the screw is lined up where it can be removed

This works too, lol.