- Sat Oct 31, 2015 1:42 am
#357412
As some of you know, the D15B7 pulley does not have the hex cutout to use a removal tool. Although I have a decent compressor, I don't have a big ass 3/4 impact gun capable of 600+lb/ft; and I'm sure most people don't.
I finally got mine off, after several attempts including:
- Nylon string in the cylinders(I didn't want to drop my piston too far risking string in my ports)
- Strap wrapped around crank with rubber hose for grip and tied around motor mount(slipped)
- Chain going from pulley to tow hook (engine moved forward)
- Chain going from pulley to suspension post thing into the frame (engine moved backwards)
- Combo of above two methods (didn't work)
Here's the video with the method I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egXIuGtxnMc
Soak the bolt in PB, then the first thing you need to do is get any hardware out of the way. Jack your car up, USE A JACK STAND on the side to keep it up. Then take the jack with a decent piece of wood and gently support the oil pan. You need a piece of wood that will distribute the weight. Now take off the side bracket for the engine mount, this is necessary so your ratchet/cheater bar has room to swivel. Then you'll need to move the PS/AC stuff.
Next, you need to find something strong that will fit in the pulley holes. I'll call this the pulley holder.
The video uses a big allen key, I happened to have some bolts that were perfect for this. I used long skinny ones before that bent, so get something solid. If it bends inside the pulley you have a new problem. Then, you need to find a chain with links big enough for the pulley holder to fit through. I went to ace hardware and got 3ft cut of I think 5/8th" chain for $12. Now wrap it around your engine mount, I used one of those spikey bolts to pin it. Then drop the other end down and pin your pulley holder into a hole in the middle.
Make sure you're using a good 1/2" ratchet and socket. I was using a Mac 3/8" like an idiot, with two 3ft cheater bars, and snapped the ratchet(we didn't have 17mm in 1/2 lol). Once I got a 1/2 it came right off.
I finally got mine off, after several attempts including:
- Nylon string in the cylinders(I didn't want to drop my piston too far risking string in my ports)
- Strap wrapped around crank with rubber hose for grip and tied around motor mount(slipped)
- Chain going from pulley to tow hook (engine moved forward)
- Chain going from pulley to suspension post thing into the frame (engine moved backwards)
- Combo of above two methods (didn't work)
Here's the video with the method I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egXIuGtxnMc
Soak the bolt in PB, then the first thing you need to do is get any hardware out of the way. Jack your car up, USE A JACK STAND on the side to keep it up. Then take the jack with a decent piece of wood and gently support the oil pan. You need a piece of wood that will distribute the weight. Now take off the side bracket for the engine mount, this is necessary so your ratchet/cheater bar has room to swivel. Then you'll need to move the PS/AC stuff.
Next, you need to find something strong that will fit in the pulley holes. I'll call this the pulley holder.
The video uses a big allen key, I happened to have some bolts that were perfect for this. I used long skinny ones before that bent, so get something solid. If it bends inside the pulley you have a new problem. Then, you need to find a chain with links big enough for the pulley holder to fit through. I went to ace hardware and got 3ft cut of I think 5/8th" chain for $12. Now wrap it around your engine mount, I used one of those spikey bolts to pin it. Then drop the other end down and pin your pulley holder into a hole in the middle.
Make sure you're using a good 1/2" ratchet and socket. I was using a Mac 3/8" like an idiot, with two 3ft cheater bars, and snapped the ratchet(we didn't have 17mm in 1/2 lol). Once I got a 1/2 it came right off.
Last edited by Virux on Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:11 am, edited 1 time in total.
