Civic EG

Picked these up today one has bent valves and a brand new cam the other has only a broken cam gear. Gonna pull the cams and use the good one. The casting numbers are P2J-7 On the end one has a J and a 7 The other has a J and a 4. And the exhaust mani what is that ? Noob any help very much appreciated Thanx

Ok i found this. Thought it was a Y8 but wasnt sure. What else should i get / do
D16Y8
96 EX D16Y8 Auto------P2J-2 stamped 95 on rs of head
97 EX D16y8 5spd-----P2J-4 --- "97" stamped on the right
97 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P2J-6 "97" stamped on rs of head
97 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P2J-7
97 EX D16Y8 5sp-----P2J-6 "96" stamped on right side
97 EX D16Y8 5pd-----P2J-4 (95 stamped on rs)
98 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P23-2
98 EX D16Y8 Auto-----P2J-5 (98 stamped on rs)
99 EX D16Y8 5sp------P2J-4
99 EX D16Y8 5spd-----P2J-7 (99 stamped on rs)
00 EX D16Y8 5sp------P2J-3 "99" stamped on right side
D15b6
89 crx hf 5 spd-------pm8-2 located above #4 exh runner

They are both vtec heads. D16y8, i think by the casting number.

Guess i need quite a bit of stuff

what motor are you putting this on? Is it obd1 or obd2? If you can make a complete working head with the parts from both then you will need less.

From what I can see you will need the IM with injectors, fuel rail and TB. All the lil sensors and crap that come on the IM. VTEC solenoid, valve cover, and header.

While its out and bare, go ahead and port and polish that bad boy.

OBD1 94 EG D15B7

this guy did the same swap.
he had a 16 valve B8, very similar to a B7
http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc/da ... -up-96144/

Unless you're rebuilding the head, I would just sell them and get a complete Z6 head. You'll spend more money piecing it together than you'd pay for a complete head. For instance, people charge $50 just for the VTEC solenoid. Then they want $50-100 for the valve cover. The Y8 intake manifolds go for $100+. Yet you can get a complete D16Z6 head for a little over $100.

Second option would be to use a Z6 manifold on that Y8 head. If you use the overpriced Y8 intake manifold, your throttle cable wont fit, you'll have to relocate your IAT, and on and on. You should always stick with your OBD generation. In this case your car is OBD1 and that head is OBD2.

In either case you'll need brand new head studs. ARP aftermarket studs are better and cheaper than stock. If you want to put that Y8 head on a OBD1 block, you'll need the Y8 kit and one custom length stud. If you get a Z6 head you can just get the Z6 kit.

^^^i agree
everyone has a hard on for the miniscule compression bump of the y8 but in the end the z6 head is simpler/easier.
-my $00.02

Plus i don´t know the conditions of those head in the bottom where the chanber is, but my on it is that if it has any little scratches i would mill those fucker b4 anything. Best bet is to hot tank them and make tem look good and sell them and get a complete head like it´s been said b4