Lincx wrote:How about Castrol EDGE 10W60 Full Synthetic? I i'm using only that... What u think about that?
That is a REALLY thick setup. Do you race the engine to warrant that much protection? Only the few engines I know that run that weight is M power BMW. The dramatic change of viscosity must cost alot cause I know Castrol 10W60 for M is about $12/quart. I do not think the protection gain, is worth the premium on top of regular 10W-30.
ilmcrx wrote:Lincx wrote:l Synthetic
thats the worst idea ever, synthetic sucks unless its a freshly build motor, but for something thats got like 200xxxkms on it 10w30/5w30 is fine, if you are wanting to use synthetic a easy way to see if your car will burn it or not is to do an oil change and buy 5w20, cuz its really light weight oil. Or if you are rich or dont mind spending like 70 bucks for a oil change buy royal purple
that stuff is the shit, i had a knock in my engine and i did a oil change and used royal purple, the knock went away
, but thats my 2 cents
where are you getting your information?
Synthetic oil has better resistance to breakdown at higher temperatures. This means the oil can withstand higher oil temperatures than dino oil (270F vs 230F). It also has better cold flow characteristics but it is NOT thinner than regular oil. 5W-30 syn is exactly the same as 5W-30 Syn. If you are burning oil in syn, but not dino, you have a problem that already existed and the syn is just merely the messenger. This should be taken care of instead of hiding the problem with regular oil as the problem can create larger problems. The benefits of a synthetic oil comes at a price. If you can justify it for your engine, go for it. If not, stick to regular. I run synthetic 10W30 as I live in warmer climates of California.
You should be able to switch from syn and dino at any mileage of a healthy motor.
back to OP:
The reccomended value from your owners manual depending on your climate is perfectly fine. 5W30 for colder climates and 10W30 for warmer climates.