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PLEASE HELP :ROD BEARING

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:09 pm
by kingmorgan
i just bought a coupe and the dude says it needs a new rod bearing? what would be the best way to change it. go in through the oil pan or pull the whole motor out. and if you could, what is some advice when replacing this?. appreciate your time.

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:32 pm
by ej2rey
Wwwwelllllllll, I know every1 is going to bash on me for saying this but when am too fucken lazy and I don't feel like pulling the whole motor out I just go through the oil pan. It saves a lot of time but not completely the right way to do it. But I recommend taking the whole motor out and taking the whole crank out. While you at it you can re-serface your crank and change the main bearings and seals while you at it.

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:33 pm
by Gorveatt
Quickest and easiest would just be swap the motor.

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:38 pm
by ej2rey
Gorveatt wrote:Quickest and easiest would just be swap the motor.
Yeah but that's a waste of money tho. Any motor can be fixed just aslong you don't have a huge hole on your motor from a rod shooting out lol.
With $100 tops he can fix it.

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:42 pm
by kingmorgan
yea man i aint tryna swap. kinda in a money bind at the moment haha. does the main bearings and crank and shit gotta be re-done? or no...man i've only messed with swaps, farthest i've gone internal was adjustin valves. haha, tryin to become familiar with this shit

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:49 pm
by ej2rey
kingmorgan wrote:yea man i aint tryna swap. kinda in a money bind at the moment haha. does the main bearings and crank and shit gotta be re-done? or no...man i've only messed with swaps, farthest i've gone internal was adjustin valves. haha, tryin to become familiar with this shit
You don't have to do all the other stuff if just the rod bearing is bad but is great to do just to be on the safe side.
Preventive maintanence you know...and the best way to learn is to start on your own ride. So here's your chance man. Just buy yourself the haynes manual for the year of your car or motor if swaped b4 and do it.

Posted:
Tue Jan 06, 2009 11:54 pm
by kingmorgan
so should i pull the motor?> or na

Posted:
Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:13 am
by ej2rey
kingmorgan wrote:so should i pull the motor?> or na
Yes man pull it...

Posted:
Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:37 am
by marvinp8700
buy a haynes manual
easy as hell just takes some elbow grease

Posted:
Wed Jan 07, 2009 1:02 am
by teal_dx
I had light rod knock and went thu the bottom. It was pretty simple actually. take off the pan, pickup, girdle, then turn the crank to each rod so you can unbolt it. I just removed the caps & bearings, not the entire rod/piston.
You'll be able to tell the bad bearing if there is heat discoloration.
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=163 ... ring+knock
you can see in that thread my #2 was bad and notice the color of the crank around the bearing

Posted:
Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:25 pm
by d-mon
i would check all the rods for excessive play (slop).
(i do this whenever i buy a used motor)
if one bearing is bad, it's possible that another will follow soon.
a 'spun' bearing, or a 'rod knock' is the result of a bad bearing not caught in time.
if the bearing is 'spun' and the 'big end' of the rod is discolored (darker), then you wil want to replace the rod and check the rod journal on the crank to make sure it is still within service limits.
also, watch out if the bearing is spun, they can be very sharp. i cut the hell out of my hand removing it.

Posted:
Sun Jan 11, 2009 3:59 pm
by TurboHatch
by the time its knocking its typically to late to just replace the bearing, the rod can now by out of round meaning a new bearing will just fail again.

Posted:
Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:47 pm
by kingmorgan
yeah the number one cylinder has a little slop in it. the other ones are nice and tight.