B20 vtec turbo EG, crank but won't start. *FIXED*VIDEO ADDED

B16, B18, B20
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By That One Dude
- Sat Dec 25, 2010 7:07 pm #229808 Perhaps the fuel pumps are priming, and the fuel pressure is enough to keep the engine running for the 2 seconds you described, but the fuel pumps cut off when you let the key come out of the start position.

Just a guess. I've seen it happen once on a stock DC4, but not since then.

Also, do you have a wideband O2 sensor? If not, Hondata is running off of the narrowband that came in the car stock. It might not be reading properly, but still not throwing a code. Make sure the lambda sampling on the s300 is set to narrowband, too. Hondata has an autoprotection mode if it sees that the engine is running in an unsafe manner. I'm not sure if it will shut the engine off but it will cut the fuel temporarily. It may cut the fuel long enough for the engine to shut off at idle.
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:16 am #229864
That One Dude wrote:Perhaps the fuel pumps are priming, and the fuel pressure is enough to keep the engine running for the 2 seconds you described, but the fuel pumps cut off when you let the key come out of the start position.

Just a guess. I've seen it happen once on a stock DC4, but not since then.


I guess it's possible, I just don't really see that being the problem because when I'm trying to start the car, I can smell the gas. But I'll check it again.

Also, do you have a wideband O2 sensor? If not, Hondata is running off of the narrowband that came in the car stock. It might not be reading properly, but still not throwing a code. Make sure the lambda sampling on the s300 is set to narrowband, too. Hondata has an autoprotection mode if it sees that the engine is running in an unsafe manner. I'm not sure if it will shut the engine off but it will cut the fuel temporarily. It may cut the fuel long enough for the engine to shut off at idle.


I don't have a wideband, I know I know, I need one... but this engine was in my crx with a hondata s200 and it worked perfect without one so I've held off on buying one. Hopefully I can afford to get one sometime next week.


The autoprotection mode is set to "OFF" I believe...I remember seeing it on SManager. I'll give it another look aswell.

Thanks for the help!!! Please keep it coming! Everyone I've been talking to seems to thing the problem is in the Dizzy....any thoughts on that?
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By That One Dude
- Sun Dec 26, 2010 4:47 am #229869 Highly doubt it's the distributor if it's getting spark while cranking. Distributors are finiky sometimes though. Take the coil out and check the resistances on the primary and secondary coils. I don't remember what the resistances are supposed to be, but if you take it to an AutoZone and they will be able to look up the resistances. It's something like 2k ohms in the primary and 15k ohms in the secondary. But don't quote me there.

I still think you should listen to the fuel pumps after it's caught and running for the two seconds. If you have a stethescope, it would serve you well.
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Sun Dec 26, 2010 5:04 am #229871
That One Dude wrote:Highly doubt it's the distributor if it's getting spark while cranking. Distributors are finiky sometimes though. Take the coil out and check the resistances on the primary and secondary coils. I don't remember what the resistances are supposed to be, but if you take it to an AutoZone and they will be able to look up the resistances. It's something like 2k ohms in the primary and 15k ohms in the secondary. But don't quote me there.

I still think you should listen to the fuel pumps after it's caught and running for the two seconds. If you have a stethescope, it would serve you well.


I'll give it another check monday, I have some family stuff tomorrow. I searched all over the internet looking for a diagram for my dizzy so I could see which wire on the dizzy went to which resistor so I could check the ohm's but had no luck.
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By That One Dude
- Sun Dec 26, 2010 5:09 am #229872 Just keep the questions and updates flowing.
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:32 am #230106 Update!

I took the dizzy to 3 different auto stores, none of them would test it for me, ended up going to AutoZone, laid the dizzy on the counter and ask the guy behind the counter if he coud test it for me to make sure it was good. He looked me start in the eye and said,"What is it?" .......I almost walked out right then, but continued to explain what "IT" was he was looking at, finally got to test it and everything checked out. Dizzy is GOOD!

I was thinking today, I have 2 fuel pumps, one under the hood and one in the tank. When I done the swap I moved over the one under the hood but didn't mess with the one in the tank, SO....I'm not sure if it is good or not. Tomorrow I'm gonna try and find a way to test it, I'd like to just find a wire I can test rather than pulling the injectors and spraying gas everywhere. I'm still up for idea's if anyone wants to throw it out there!!

Alot of people have had this problem, but no one ever post's the fix, usually if they get it going, they just leave the forum hanging :x
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By That One Dude
- Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:50 am #230108 Take the ground wire off of the pump under the hood and cycle the tank pump with the key. If you hear it, it's turning. Change your fuel filter under the hood. Pull the tank fuel pump out and change the filter sock on it.

If you find that the tank pump is bad, get yourself a Walbro 255L/hr pump and get rid of the second pump. It's not exactly the most practical/useful way to have spent your money, IMO. Most people I've seen with dual pumps are running upwards of 700-800whp.
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Tue Dec 28, 2010 1:05 am #230110
That One Dude wrote:Take the ground wire off of the pump under the hood and cycle the tank pump with the key. If you hear it, it's turning. Change your fuel filter under the hood. Pull the tank fuel pump out and change the filter sock on it.


:thumb: :thumb: Will check it tomorrow.

If you find that the tank pump is bad, get yourself a Walbro 255L/hr pump and get rid of the second pump. It's not exactly the most practical/useful way to have spent your money, IMO. Most people I've seen with dual pumps are running upwards of 700-800whp


Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. I may never get past 350whp but just in case I do, I'm gonna leave the one under the hood. It ran perfect with this setup in my crx, I just want to get it back to the way it was.

Some guys from another forum really think its the timing, but the 2 seconds it does run, sound really clean/good...Whats your thoughts on that?
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By That One Dude
- Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:54 am #230127 Well it's always a possibility. Did you take the head off, cams out, or timing belt off? Do you have adjustable cam gears? If so, go check them out to make sure they're still set where you had them in the CRX.
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:55 am #230167
That One Dude wrote:Well it's always a possibility. Did you take the head off, cams out, or timing belt off? Do you have adjustable cam gears? If so, go check them out to make sure they're still set where you had them in the CRX.


Well that's the thing, if it IS the timing, it would have had to Jump time. Because it doesn't have adjustable cam gears and the motor hasn't been taken apart since I've owned it. The 2 seconds it runs, sound really good, so I'm having a hard time getting my mind wrapped around the idea that it's out of time. Hopefully tomorrow I can check the pump in the tank, I'll post more once I do that...

By Swamp_thing
- Wed Dec 29, 2010 7:03 am #230313 I had this same problem in my H22 Accord,it runnin for about 2 seconds,it strtd to spit n then died...i smelled gas under the hood,so after a day of replacing parts,i decided to check my plugs,and they were flooded....replaced them and boom,started right up....did u check your plugs?
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By lsvbeghatch
- Fri Dec 31, 2010 4:29 pm #230705 pull your injectors out and clean them individually had his happen a few times with my old rc 550s dont know why or for what reason but id get it runnin itd die and if i got it to run 3500 was my tac out on it cleaned th injectors ran perfect not a guarantee fix but a very easy thing to try
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Fri Dec 31, 2010 8:59 pm #230737 Checked the pump in the tank, it's coming on...

,i decided to check my plugs,and they were flooded....replaced them and boom,started right up....did u check your plugs?

Spark plugs? I checked them a few days ago, they were getting fire and I could smell gas on the end. I just bought them a few weeks ago, they were the cheap plugs though.

pull your injectors out and clean them individually had his happen a few times with my old rc 550s dont know why or for what reason but id get it runnin itd die and if i got it to run 3500 was my tac out on it cleaned th injectors ran perfect not a guarantee fix but a very easy thing to try


I haven't done this yet, but I was thinking about it. Will give it a try when it stops raining....
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By 93hatcheg
- Sun Jan 02, 2011 4:49 am #230925 my 2 sense is the timing man, everything i have read says that lsvtec and b20vtec mechanical timing will always be slightly off because of motor configuration. all the write ups on b20v and lsv all say to get adjustable cam gears so the timing can be adjusted as close as possible but will still never be perfect.

maybe the timing was good at first and after so much driving it slowly and slowly started coming out of time??

idk i would suggest checking

my d16z6 did this to me when i first got it because it had a y8 cam gear which is .5 teeth different from the z6 so it would continuoisly go out of time over the course of soo many miles.

seeing as the b20v will never have perfect time (from what i read) maybe that has happened :?

idk but its worth a shot at this point. hope it helps man
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By B20vtec-turbo
- Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:09 am #230943
93hatcheg wrote:my 2 sense is the timing man, everything i have read says that lsvtec and b20vtec mechanical timing will always be slightly off because of motor configuration. all the write ups on b20v and lsv all say to get adjustable cam gears so the timing can be adjusted as close as possible but will still never be perfect.

maybe the timing was good at first and after so much driving it slowly and slowly started coming out of time??

idk i would suggest checking

my d16z6 did this to me when i first got it because it had a y8 cam gear which is .5 teeth different from the z6 so it would continuoisly go out of time over the course of soo many miles.

seeing as the b20v will never have perfect time (from what i read) maybe that has happened :?

idk but its worth a shot at this point. hope it helps man


Yea, I'm to the point where I'm willing to try anything now. I'll look into it and let you know. I appreciate all the help guy's!
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