Civic EG

hey all
im pricing things that i want to do to my car
and i decieded on what motor i want and im choosing a USDM B16 2nd gen. cause cali's laws wont let you have "JDM" motors due to smog.

but
im a deer in head lights when it comes to the B serise
and im gonna ask some noob questions, so bare wit me

so i would like some help choosing the rite one and the rite internals
i will be turboin this motor too
i would like 300-350ish hp if possable
its goin into a eg8 (lx)

i would like someone that knows B engines and trannies
to point me in the rite way..

thanks

oh btw im set on gettin a b16, not a b18 not a b20, nor the "ls/vtec"

Finally, someone wants to use the B16a. Everyone seems to really hate these motors.


You say you want to turbo it and make 300-350 HP. How much do you want to spend on the motor. You can always overbuild the motor and just not boost as high and have it more reliable.

ya all i see is b18 and the b20's i dont see the b16 often

well price isnt gonna be an issue, and i would love for it to boosted and reliable

Okay then. Are you ready.

Block mods:

Sleeving 81mm or more depending on your tastes
Forged Pistons - Arias, JE, SRP, Weisco, Endyne*my choice* with static CR of 9:1
Forged rods - Eagle, Crower, Pauter, and so on.
ARP main studs
ARP rod bolts if not included with rods
Oil Pan - modded stock, Moroso
Crank - Stock, Crower, Eagle - stroke up to you.


Head Mods:

Port and polish!!!
Bigger valves +.5 or +1mm for intake and exhaust
Valve job
Bronze Valve guides
New valve seals
Valve springs and retainers - Skunk2, Buddy Club, Toda, and so on



That will just about cover the more important things. Im sure I forgot some things, but those are the big parts.

ok cool,

so what do you mean by sleeving ??

thats what your pistons go in. its called a sleev because you can remove it. then install better ones with a bigger bore..

not always a bigger bore. you can still stay 81mm. it just makes the motor a closed deck and not an open on. makes the wall stronger and less prone to move and flex.

Greasedmonkey wrote:not always a bigger bore. you can still stay 81mm. it just makes the motor a closed deck and not an open on. makes the wall stronger and less prone to move and flex.

your like a walking , talking honda tech book. look up honda guru in the dictionary and your pic is there.lol

I dont know about that...

well compaird to my knowlage. you higher on the food chain for tech info. i know enough to get me by, im learning more and more off this site. i cant get enough. i have been on here almost every day mon-fri while at work. im addicted to the info.......

im look at some motors online and some say long block and short block

whats the diff??

Short block and long block basically refer to when the engine is being sold. It all depends on the parts coming with it.

Short block normally regards to whether the head is being sold with it or not.

If the head is being sold with the engine it is referred to as long block.

Hope this helps.

Also, I'm planning on putting a UKDM B16a2 engine in my car

Luke.

LPUK wrote:Short block and long block basically refer to when the engine is being sold. It all depends on the parts coming with it.

Short block normally regards to whether the head is being sold with it or not.

If the head is being sold with the engine it is referred to as long block.

Hope this helps.

Also, I'm planning on putting a UKDM B16a2 engine in my car

Luke.

Yep. Long block is pretty much the whole motor minus accesories, and sometimes manifolds and such.

Short block is just the block, pistons, rods, crank, and oil pan. everything with out the head attached.

ok i got another question

is the b16 from the delsol obd1
and if so would be better to use that motor from the sol
or get the b16 from the 99-00 si obd2??

The del sol got both versions. Depends on the year as to which one it is.