Civic EG

Here's my projected build sheet for my engine. Pay no mind to what car it's going into. I'm always reading, so expect this sheet to change more than a few times.

Bottom End: B18A1.
-Sleeved with Darton MID sleeves, 84mm.
-Stock LS crank, balanced and polished.
-Stock length BC rods, 137mm.
-ENDYN Rollerwave pistons, 4.2cc dome, net 12.87:1 CR, static.
-ACL race bearings (full set).
-GSR oil and water pumps (they're the same as ITR, trust me).
-GSR oil pan and pickup tube.
-LS timing belt tensioner.
-TODA ITR timing belt.
-ENDYN lower block girdle.

Top End: ENDYN developed B-series VTEC head.
-GSR style quench pads (helps achieve the 12.87:1 static CR).
-ENDYN Bumpsticks (IN: .481", 268* duration, EX .458", 264* duration).
-ENDYN modified LMAs.
-ENDYN Pro-Series valves, oversized .5mm (33.5mm IN, 28.5mm EX).
-ENDYN titanium valve retainers.
-ENDYN valve springs, seats, and seals.
-Buddy Club cam gears.
-TWM ITBs.
-RC 440cc/min injectors.
-Stock fuel rail, filter, and pressure regulator.
-Hy-Tech Header (through ENDYN).
-Golden Eagle LS/VTEC conversion kit sans head gasket.
-Cometic 84mm head gasket.

Tuning: OBD-I P72 with Hondata s300, tuned by my friend Thomas who used to tune for Jotech.
-AEM wideband O2 sensor.
-Tuned on 100 octane.

Accessories:
-OEM alternator rewound to 130A (my buddy's grandpa does that for a living).
-Gatorback alternator belt.
-PS/AC deleted.
-Stock LS crank pulley with PS and AC ribs cut off and rebalanced.
-Hasport engine mounts.
-Custom billet aluminum (with hard urethane bushings and steel inserts) front lower mounts.
-Samco hoses.
-Mishimoto dual core radiator.
-Mishimoto fans and shroud.
-Customized LS wiring harness (by customized, I mean I'll be tearing through it to cut out any wires and connectors that aren't being used).
-Walbro 255lph, high pressure fuel pump.
-Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel.
-Not sure what clutch I'll use yet.
-Aluminum 2.5" header back exhaust.
-Vibrant Stealth muffler, 2.5 inlet, 3" outlet.

I'm always open for suggestions, opinions, and criticism. I'm always asking questions and learning things, so don't hesitate to chime in if you see something that I don't or if you have some insight that I don't.

I don't have a huge income right now, so this will take a fair amount of time, but I WILL get this done.

Thanks for looking.

There is no need for a cr that high. and why the Toda belt? no need for it if you are not using their cams. just get a power enterprises. Just as good and cheaper.

Greasedmonkey wrote:There is no need for a cr that high.

x2

I wouldn't get the CR that high if it weren't for the pistons I have...

The ENDYN Rollerwave pistons have a 4.2cc dome on them.

I've never heard of Power Enterprises. I shall check them out.

i know the rollerwaves are good pistons, you can even use lower octane fuel than normal with them, but dont they come with different domes?

Yes, they do come in lower dome heights, but that would net me less than 11.5:1 static CR. I don't think I'll make 250whp on 11.5:1. I'm going to use 100 octane race fuel to make damn sure I don't get any detonation. I am aware that I could use 93-95 or so, but I want to run some weird timing just to see what it does. I'm thinking instead of advancing it further toward, say 25* BTDC (from 16* BTDC stock idle), I'll try retarding the timing a little just to see if anything is gained from 13*-14*. I tried retarding my timing today on my stock LS engine, and it failed miserably. Probably because it's a stock engine with no tuning of any sort.

Seems as though the Power Enterprise T-belt is $158, TODA is 16,000Yen (roughly $170) according to the TODA site. Not a huge difference in price, and I know the quality TODA produces. I'm going to go with what I know on this one. That's not to say POWER doesn't produce a good quality belt, I just know the quality of TODA...

DISCLAIMER: I won't be able to get this engine built and in the car for a good while. I'm a student and I'll be paying back $35K of loans when I get out...

I do, however, have the capability to save for parts and such as I can. The biggest issue will be getting the block sleeved. From there it will be smooth sailing.

Any recommendations on where to send my block?

I didn't see anything about a clutch. You are going to want at least a stage 2 I would imagine..

Engine: 85mm bore, 89mm stroke, 12:1 compression, headgames ported cylinder head, full valvetrain, skunk2 stage 3 cams, skunk2 cam gears, twm 50mm itbs portmatched, 440cc injectors, DTR FAB 2.0 liter street header, 2.5" custom exhaust

that set up made 248/171 to the wheels.


2.0l LSVTEC
B18A RS MACHINES SLEEVED
CP 12.2:1 Pistons
Turbo Dave Fabrications Custom Header
Eagle Rods
ACL bearings
ARP studs
ITR head ported by DFE Enterprises aka DonF
Skunk2 PRO3 Camshafts and Cam gears
Rocket Motorsports Valvesprings an Retainers
Skunk2 70mm PRO Thorttle Body
AEBS Intake manifold Ported by DFE Enterprises aka DonF
Turbo Dave Fabrications Custom Metal Whale Penis Intake
CTR N1 Crank Pulley
MOTOR ASSEMBLED BY DONF


this one made 237/159


Both were on 93 oct tunes. If you keep with the 100 octane, and 12.5 cr I think you should sleeve to 85mm with a 89mm stroke. You should have no problem making 250 wheel horse power.

I wish i could have that preparation on my eg9.

Here in Portugal, is not easy.

Congratulations.

Shit like that isnt easy here. Ive been trying to get everything ready for mine for ever.

I've thrown around going 85mm bore, but I decided I would like to be able to bore it out further should I need to rebuild it.

This isn't going into an EG, btw, but it's a B-series, and I'm all over the place asking questions and getting opinions on my build sheet.

As for clutch, I haven't decided yet, but I'm thinking either Fidanza 3.2 or Exedy stage 2 or 3. Depends on how I feel that day. I don't know a whole lot about the Exedy clutches, specifically the stage 3, but I have driven an Integra with the Fidanza 3.2. I have the 2.1 in my 'teg, and I love it.

The head I'm looking at, made by ENDYN (just down the road from me, actually) is available in three different port stages. I'm looking at the third stage. It is the most expensive, but I know the quality of product coming out of ENDYN and it's absolutely worth the money. It's cast in a very very close replica of the PR3 head and is available with either B16/ITR combustion chambers, or GSR style flat combustion pads for higher CR. I'm opting for the GSR pads.

The CTR N1 Pulley is a bad idea unless the engine is going to be ripped apart after every race, inspected, and rebuilt completely after every couple of races. It was designed specifically for lightness, and bears no thought towards engine harmonics. Therefore, I will be using the stock crank pulley cut down to one belt rib for the alternator and balanced with the crank, rods, and pistons.

Endyne is the shit. they build my friends B20/vtec made 242whp and he drives it all the time.

Larry is an awesome guy to talk to as well. I learned a lot of shit frim him and his staff just by hanging out for a couple of hours down there.

In fact, I'm going over that way Thursday to pick up my pistons. I don't have the rods yet, and the block isn't sleeved/bored yet, but I'm still going to get the pistons just to have them when the time comes. That and I've already payed for them...

Pics of my parts and such as soon as I can find my camera...which I've been searching for over the past 4 months...

Here's a few pics of all the parts I've accumulated, some of which are already on the car, others are just in preparation for when I get the engine built.

My crankshaft. I have since cleaned, and magnafluxed the bitch. It's in perfect condition.


My engine block (B18A1) and crankshaft. The block came with the rear main, front main, water tube, main caps, and the crank pulley.


My Fidanza 7.5# flywheel. It is sexy. And the engine revs like a mofo.


All of my parts. I've since sold the S2K seats, I no longer use Castrol EDGE oil (that was in my other car that is now totaled), I've installed all of the Energy Suspension bushings in the picture, as well as the Fidanza 2.1 clutch. Those two aluminum pieces on either side of the clutch disc are billet aluminum with hard urethane bushings and stainless steel inserts. They own. The PowerSlots and Hawk HPS pads are on all four corners, and the oil pan gasket is in place.


FYI, these are all Integra parts. Because I own and Integra. I do, however, have a goal of buying an EG hatch, building a mild LS/VTEC for it, and using it as my daily while I track the Integra.

since you have the crank out why not knife edge it? let it handle spinning to 9 or so.

I'll have it knife edged and balanced to 10K with the rods, pistons, and crank pulley. After I get around to taking the pulley to the machine shop down the street and having the PS/AC ribs lobbed off.