550hp ITR build

B16, B18, B20
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550hp ITR build

By Treezy
- Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:09 pm #155130 I've been planning a 550hp ITR build and would like to get as much input as possible on part selection. Here's the low-down on what I'm looking for, then some parts for discussion:

Full ITR B18C motor, built by a race shop, machined & sleeved, built for boost, dyno goal is no less than 550 at high boost with 350 for normal driving applications. The car will be used mainly for show, with the occassional fun on the Autostrada (Italy) after its built.

Here's some parts I'm looking at, please give input and ideas. I'm serious about the build, so please keep it as legit and realistic as possible, not just random opinions. Thanks!

SKUNK2 COMPOSITE FUEL RAIL
OBX-R 72mm THROTTLE BODY
OBX-R Throttle Body Spacer
ACT clutch/Flywheel (AI4-XXR6—6 Puck)
Hasport Motor Mounts
Hondata S300 ECU
Greddy Oil Filter Relocation Kit
Greddy Oil Cooler
Skunk2 Mega-Power Exhaust
Greddy Timing belt
Mishimoto Radiator
Hasport 3.9 CV Axles

I'm researching additional parts, so if you know of anything that you think would work well with my application, please let me know! Yes, I do realize how much this will cost and am planning accordingly. If all goes well, the build will start in summer 2011 (post-deployment). I'm just looking for the best parts to fit my build without being excessive an un-needed (i.e. 5.9 axles when only 3.9 are needed..).
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By biggnutz123
- Fri Nov 06, 2009 5:43 pm #155149 Sounds like a sick build! what are you planning for the block? I assume with wanting to break the 550hp mark your gunna wanna build the hell out of the block including full sleeves i.e. darton mids or golden eagle. Im in the middle of building my ls for about 350whp, i added all the parts up and not including sleeves or turbo setup im just under 3 grand! But the way i am im gunna spend the money on the parts i want even if it take me an extra year to finish! good luck on the build though.
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By Treezy
- Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:30 pm #155174 Yeah, the block will be bored out and sleeved. Was originally looking at AEBS t-sleeves, but once again I'm trying to curb the un-necessary overkill for my build. The company doing my build will probably be using darton sleeves since they're the most common, haven't discussed it yet. I'm also looking at an AEM safm system and a GTR30R or GTR35R turbo. As of right now, the engine w/turbo, built, tuned, everything installed and out the door.. eh, roughly 16-19k. That's not including the parts I listed above (if any price difference), or the trans build. I'm still looking into the transmission work, and there's a post in the transmission section for more input.

By (T)reezy
- Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:04 pm #155184 Hey, my car had more hp than yours for less. I decided to get rid of it because it was just too much car for me, but for about $30 you can make it hell on wheels (and maybe in the sky). Now I know what you're saying, and I'm a let you finish but, all yous gotta do is put a hole in the gas tank and light a match. Sure, the power is short lived but your car will take off so hard it'll knock anyone within 100ft of it over with it's sheer power! Dang son!
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By Treezy
- Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:24 pm #155189 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: That's what I get for doing forums at work. That's awesome.. Just so everyone is in on the joke, I'm an E-6 select (TSgt), hence the (T) on the name.. (T)reezy. lol, I can't quit laughing.. This is so stupid.. Thanks kramer (one of my troops).
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By That One Dude
- Sat Nov 07, 2009 5:18 am #155270 You don't want an OBX TB... I've seen it and it's a piece of shit.

Edlebrock makes a 70mm TB. 70mm is big enough for 550whp.

You also might want to look into an Edlebrock VictorX IM if you want THAT much power. I know the ITR IM flows like a bat out of Hell, but for 550whp, you might need to upgrade.

The oil cooler is a great idea. Most people don't even think about putting an oil cooler on a turbo application. I know a guy who is running ~400whp in a B16B turbo (obviously built the fuck up), and he doesn't run a heat exchanger aside from the radiator and intercooler...

Instead of Hasport axles, check out www.driveshaftshop.com
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By Treezy
- Sat Nov 07, 2009 3:40 pm #155314 Thanks for the info. Yeah, I've been talking to people and everyone says to go with either a 68 or 70mm TB, so that's my next window-shopping stop. I know that several companies make/market them.. Anyone have any input on S2 TB's? Good upps on the IM, I've also seen a lot of info for that one online. Just not sure which one I wanna put on my list yet. As for the DSS axles, I think they're probably better than hasport, but the cost-to-use ratio isn't worth it IMO. If I were building for the strip or was looking to put tough torque to it on the regular, it would definitely be worth it. But since I'm building for show.. "that'll do Hasport.., that'll do." :lol:

I had a guy with a B16 fully built to the specs I'm building to, running a GT30R @ between 500-550. He had dumped about $24k into his ride. When we first started hanging out I was a little skeptical, even though his parts list was all in his head and lasted like 5 minutes to spit it all out!! I quickly changed my tune when on day three of knowing him, he got drunk and asked me to drive him home in it. SWEET JESUS!! lol. He worked Blackwater tech and transferred out a few weeks later, right before he taught me how to street-tune the damn Hondata program. Man, do I miss that guy. If anyone knows a civic guy named Juice, possibly in Tennessee, let me know!

This was a great response.. If you have part ideas, or info on stuff I already have listed, please feel free to drop me a line!
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By suspendedHatch
- Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:17 pm #155442 If you're going to build the motor anyway it might be cheaper to start with a GSR or even an LS and get a B16 head.

Another alternative would be an aftermarket head and block from Endyn. You can order up a lot more displacement that way. Be a lot more reliable in the end as well.
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By Greasedmonkey
- Sun Nov 08, 2009 8:38 pm #155454 You will want a edelbrock manifold. Performerx or victorx. Cant remember which one is turbo friendly. along with a GOOD 70mm tb. Edlebrock, skunk2 and so on.

Like someone said before, you dont want obx stuff on a power build.


Let a good known head shop do your head. RLZ, Dfe, portflow. That way you know it was done right.
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By Treezy
- Sun Nov 08, 2009 10:44 pm #155467 I already have the block and will be using an itr head. Yes, I know it would probably have been cheaper in the long run to go gsr, but the 18C block ran me $50 bare so I wasn't complaining.. I really didn't want to use OBX for anything, that's why I'm still doing my shopping and asking. I already posted a product review of their fuel rail.., yeah, not so good. I'm already running a full edelbrock top-end (IM, cleaner, carb..) on my drag truck so I know they do good work. As for the head work, I was going to use Laskey Racing out in Cali, but I'm leaning towards MRD in Portsmouth, VA. They're reputable and can do my entire build plus tune & install for the same price other companies were going to charge just for the build. My plan was to install it myself, but I don't have the time between returning from deployment and moving to Italy.

I seriously looked at starting with a bigger foundation.. When the fog cleared, I chose the 1.8. It also has a huge support and following, not to mention that it'll be a lot easier to locate parts at a reasonable price overseas. This is my build: itr ftw.
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By That One Dude
- Mon Nov 09, 2009 4:10 am #155523 I don't understand why people think that the B20 has very little aftermarket... It's literally the same block casting as the B18B1 but with a different stamp, different VIN coding, and different cylinders.

There is just as much aftermarket for the B20B/Z as there is for the B18B/A. Simply because you have epic interchange action between all of the B-series engines (spare for the bastard Bs).
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By Treezy
- Mon Nov 09, 2009 2:07 pm #155589 Stock 1.8 = 81, stock 2.0 = 84... When I'm done with the block work, my block will be at 84mm, making it a 2.0.. I thought about going larger, but not with boost. Wanna make sure the walls are thick enough and enforced with good sleeves. Once again, I achieve my goals without excess or overkill.

I'm still looking for info and/or insight on parts for the build. I AM using a 1.8 for the build and it won't change. What I need now is to finalize the parts that i'll be purchasing.

I'm aware of the B20 support and maybe it came out wrong the way I said it, but by the time I decided on my bottom end, the itr block had dropped in my lap..
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By That One Dude
- Mon Nov 09, 2009 9:13 pm #155674 No I totally understand where you're coming from because you already have the ITR block, but it's people who don't understand the minimal differences between the B18B and B20B/Z that anger me.

As far as head choice goes, you can find a B16 head for less than an ITR head. And it's the same casting. Only difference between the two is that the ITR head was hand ported to a slight degree from the factory. If you're sending your head off to get worked up, you might as well just get a B16 head and save yourself a few bucks on the name.
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By Treezy
- Tue Nov 10, 2009 1:22 am #155723 That's the real kicker.. I'm leaning towards going with a full itr, as opposed to mixing it up. Sound crazy? Yeah, maybe.. Just that kinda guy. I will most definitely be using a B16 head over a gsr, even though it won't make that much of a difference in the end game since it'll get a grip of work done. There's just something about throwing a gsr head on an itr block.. it just doesn't seem right! lol. I did a lot of research on flow through both the itr and 1.6 heads.. The difference was so minimal that I could damn near scrape a decal off and make up for it.
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By That One Dude
- Tue Nov 10, 2009 3:34 am #155758 You are correct, sir. And I would rather use the ITR/B16 head for boost rather than the GSR because of the quench pads. GSR has flat quench pads for a slightly smaller combustion chamber, and the ITR/B16 has an open combustion chamber. Smaller chamber = higher compression. Higher compression in boost = knock unless tuned right. Granted, the CR differences between the twto heads on the same block are not super huge, but under positive pressure it makes a difference.
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