B16, B18, B20
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By EG*RYDER
#173969 I'm almost done with my LS build here is what I've done let me know what you think.

Cylinder head: Resurfaced, Valve Job, Port&Polish, Supertech valves, valve guides and valve seals, Crower Stage 1 Street Cam, JG Dual valve springs, JG Cam gears, BDL IND. cam seal.

Block: Resurfaced, Bored&Honed (5 Over), Micro polished LS crank, Shot peened LS rods, OEM Honda ITR Piston, Nippon racing Full Gasket and seal kit, King bearings and Nippon racing piston ring Kit, Megan racing block girdle and blox block guard, Moroso oil pan, CTR main pulley, ACT Lightened fly wheel, ARP high performance rod bolts, main cap bolts, head studs, cam cap bolts, Flywheel bolts, main pulley bolt.

Thats all for now can't remeber anymore will up date when more is don waiting for a part so we can balnce and blue print. Any thoughts are welcome thank,

Pics will be up soon!!!

Well here's the first pic ill have pics of the head and the rest of th valvetrain up asap.

These are my Supertech intake valve guides in manganese bronze.
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Last edited by EG*RYDER on Wed Feb 17, 2010 4:02 am, edited 5 times in total.
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By breez
#173984 Get those pics up ASAP cant wait to see :thumb: .
By adionik
#174250 Sounds good, now boost it :lol:
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By JUICE
#174256
adionik wrote:Sounds good, now SPRAY it :lol:


fix'd lol


sounds like he's goin for a higher CR, NA build.... good for nitrous
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By Greasedmonkey
#174789
JUICE wrote:
adionik wrote:Sounds good, now CAM it :lol:


fix'd lol


sounds like he's goin for a higher CR, NA build.... good for nitrous



Fixed it yet again. No additives needed. ALL MOTOR is best.
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By EG*RYDER
#175238 Yes sir I'm going n/a and a projected Cr of 11.2-11.4.1 great for road course or autocross. :thumb:
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By OmarG
#178230
Greasedmonkey wrote:
JUICE wrote:
adionik wrote:Sounds good, now CAM it :lol:


fix'd lol


sounds like he's goin for a higher CR, NA build.... good for nitrous



Fixed it yet again. No additives needed. ALL MOTOR is best.


To me going fast is going fast. Boost is cheaper, though I would love to have an all motor beast, just to say "you just got spanked by a n/a fourbanger". Sure boost is cheating, but it's fun. :)
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By Greasedmonkey
#178296 Stay away from the CTR N1 pulley if thats the one you have. Otherwise, ignore this post.
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By EG*RYDER
#181119 Whats wrong with the CTR N1 ?
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By blk92hb
#181126 all i got to say is stay n\a but the is a saying the the hot rod world "babys have bottles real men get blown"
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By EG*RYDER
#198670 Well guys i decided to boost the ls cause im building a gsr for my hatch and putting the ls in something else so need another high compression motor plus I've always wanted to boost.
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By That One Dude
#198723
EG*RYDER wrote:Whats wrong with the CTR N1 ?


It'd used on the N1 CTR B16B. That's what's wrong with it...

No, but seriously...

It's super light, as you have already found out. This IS the problem.

The factory crank pulley is also a harmonic dampner. It absorbs a lot of the internal vibrations caused by the combustion cycle of the engine. Without the dampning effect of the factory pulley, you subject the crank, rods, pistons, wrist pins, main caps, and especially the oil pump to exessive vibrations that you can't detect without special equipment. These vibrations cause stress within the metals, and ultimately could cause stress fractures due to the hardening/brittling effect that the vibrations have on the metals.

The reason why N1 CTR race teams use the extremely lightweight aluminum pulley is because they tear apart, inspect, and rebuild the engines after every race. Also, the N1 B16B sees super high RPMs for hours on end. Everyone knows that the higher the RPMs, the smoother the engine runs. If you plan on making this your DD, you will go through oil pumps, and possibly main bearings like I go through Dr Pepper (I'm a Texan, if that tells you anything...). I know you said you are going to have the engine balanced and blueprinted, but that doesn't negate the fact that it's not being used in an ABSOLUTELY RACE ONLY application, as far as I could tell reading your thread.

If you want an aftermarket crank pulley, and don't mind spending $400, get a Fluidamper.

If you don't want to spend $400, use a factory pulley. Have a machine shop cut the P/S and A/C ribs off, then balance it. You'll still have a lightened pulley, but you will lengthen the interval between oil pump changes...at which point in time you will kick yourself for using the CTR pulley.

I hope this helped sway your decision. If not, that's totally 100% your call, and I can't do anything to change your mind. I just want people to be informed.

Otherwise, the N/A parts you posted promise a good build! Nearly identical to what I want to do if I choose to remain N/A. Too bad you're going to boost it... J/K What intake manifold are you using and what header were you going to use for the N/A build?
User avatar
By EG*RYDER
#198737
That One Dude wrote:
EG*RYDER wrote:Whats wrong with the CTR N1 ?


It'd used on the N1 CTR B16B. That's what's wrong with it...

No, but seriously...

It's super light, as you have already found out. This IS the problem.

The factory crank pulley is also a harmonic dampner. It absorbs a lot of the internal vibrations caused by the combustion cycle of the engine. Without the dampning effect of the factory pulley, you subject the crank, rods, pistons, wrist pins, main caps, and especially the oil pump to exessive vibrations that you can't detect without special equipment. These vibrations cause stress within the metals, and ultimately could cause stress fractures due to the hardening/brittling effect that the vibrations have on the metals.

The reason why N1 CTR race teams use the extremely lightweight aluminum pulley is because they tear apart, inspect, and rebuild the engines after every race. Also, the N1 B16B sees super high RPMs for hours on end. Everyone knows that the higher the RPMs, the smoother the engine runs. If you plan on making this your DD, you will go through oil pumps, and possibly main bearings like I go through Dr Pepper (I'm a Texan, if that tells you anything...). I know you said you are going to have the engine balanced and blueprinted, but that doesn't negate the fact that it's not being used in an ABSOLUTELY RACE ONLY application, as far as I could tell reading your thread.

If you want an aftermarket crank pulley, and don't mind spending $400, get a Fluidamper.

If you don't want to spend $400, use a factory pulley. Have a machine shop cut the P/S and A/C ribs off, then balance it. You'll still have a lightened pulley, but you will lengthen the interval between oil pump changes...at which point in time you will kick yourself for using the CTR pulley.

I hope this helped sway your decision. If not, that's totally 100% your call, and I can't do anything to change your mind. I just want people to be informed.

Otherwise, the N/A parts you posted promise a good build! Nearly identical to what I want to do if I choose to remain N/A. Too bad you're going to boost it... J/K What intake manifold are you using and what header were you going to use for the N/A build?



Thanks for the info bro I see your point but as for your question I was going to go with the Greddy SUS header and i was debating on weather to go with skunk2 manifold and TB or have my stock TB and manifold bored/milled at machine shop and port matched with matching throttle plate.

What do you think?
User avatar
By That One Dude
#198764 The stock LS manifold is quite restrictive in comparison to the Skunk2 manifold, so I'd drop the $300 for the better part.

I haven't seen anyone use the SUS header...time for a Google search...
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By intheworks
#198998 lot of good info!!!! good luck with the build and +1 for NA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!