Civic EG

so i bought a ek9 enduro race pulley from icbmotersport.com and was going to put it in within the next week...... i have ok mechanic knowledge but was wondering if i have to mess with the timing when putting it in.....

no cuz the gear for the timeing belt is behind the pulley

ok cool thanks thats all i needed.......

is yours like the N1 pulley, where the a/c and p/s are disabled??

yea its one pound....... got it for a good deal wit the extended belt.......

my bro had one of those on his b16b , was a bitch to turn stood still, but with no p/s and a/c pulleys it was sweet lol

That pulley is going to destroy your oil pump. The factory crank pulley is a harmonic dampner, and your N1 style aluminum pulley is not.

Without the dampning abilities of the factory pulley, the combustion vibrations will wear out the oil pump gears faster than you can shake a stick at it.

The 1lb aluminum pulleys are used on N1 CTRs because the engines are torn down and rebuilt after every race or two. Unless you can afford to replace your oil pump every 6 months or so, I would recommend you take your factory crank pulley to a machine shop and have them shave off the PS and AC ribs then balance it.

If you want to spend $400, you could also get a Fluidamper harmonic dampner...but most people don't want to spend $400 on a harmonic dampner for a daily driven Civic...

its oem from honda...... doesnt that mean its harmonically balanced

ikon wrote:its oem from honda...... doesnt that mean its harmonically balanced

I'm sure it is to a point... but like the Dude said, it's for a motor thats getting hard raced on and rebuilt often...

It may be OE Honda, but it's a chunk of aluminum that is machined to a pulley. It may be balanced, but it's not a dampner.

The B16Bs in the N1 CTRs are so perfectly balanced internally, that there isn't really a necessity for an external dampner. And they get torn down, inspected, and rebuilt all the freaking time...that's the big thing.

Dampner = shock absorber more or less. Without the absorbing characteristics of the factory crank pulley, you blow through oil pumps. There's also an increased risk of spinning a bearing.

and there it is......... thnx for the info.^^^^^ knows his b series shit for those just tuning in

well hes pissed now...... wonderin what he needs then. what pulley options r better, etc.

^^

That One Dude wrote: I would recommend you take your factory crank pulley to a machine shop and have them shave off the PS and AC ribs then balance it.

If you want to spend $400, you could also get a Fluidamper harmonic dampner...but most people don't want to spend $400 on a harmonic dampner for a daily driven Civic...

im not argueing with anyone on this tread, but i ran the ctr pulley on my poormans r when it was in my other hatch as a dd for allmost 6mo on the daily 30 mi ea way... and havent had problems yet, (key word) granted i have that engine in my other car now that is my daily with a LS crank pulley because i put the n1 on my car i only drive on occasoin.... but now im considering putting the stck b16 one back on...

honestly come to think of it tho that dose make very much sense... my dad races a 427 in a camaro, and he had a moroso solid alum. balancer that came with the engine and the guy at the machine shop said not to run it on the street that it would be hard on the harmonics on the engine.... i never rele thought bout that with the n1... but i makes sense.... thanks for the info

As far as the aluminum pulley goes, it's good for high RPM racing, but that's it. The higher the RPM, the smoother the engine is running. The biggest reason I don't like aluminum crank pulleys is because of the damage they do at low RPMs.

Ikon, thanks for the compliment, but I know only a little compared to Suspended Hatch, ChicagoMike, and a few others on this site among other sites.