Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Mon Jun 21, 2010 9:52 am #201359 Hey so i currently have a b16a in my hatch and its been giving me a few bad problems...but i guess i'll stat at the beginning. i originally had swapped an ls-v in a few months ago i wasnt having any problems at all i had the vtec wired in by a local shop and it was working great! well one day i spun a bearing so a new lower end was in order. Well, i locally found a b16a block in decent shape so i bought it re built it and threw it in. it was running fine the first 100 miles of the break in or so but i hadnt taken near vtec rpms yet. well around 700 miles or so i finally decided to give it a little juice and found out my vtec wasnt hitting and then for the first time i had thrown a code with this setup....well after having a few more problems i found out the computer i had bought was a flashed p06 so i bought a p72, and got a code 23, well i found out how the shop had wired in vtec and they grounded out the ks wire so i fixed that....ran great for a good half hour but still no vtec then i got a code 22 so i started re wiring that after that was done i also decided to try and do the iab overide well after i was done with all that now i have a code 21. the other codes are gone but im getting sick of being in "limp" mode and rewiring over and over again. so i guess my questions are...can i use a d series vtec solenoid on a b series head...and are there any wiring diagrams for what the wire colors are on the vtec solenoid itself...ive seen a few of which wire goes where but never one of the specific wires... and also if anyone has any suggestions on what to do...sorry bout the story but im s.o.l. also if anyone needs any pics i can get them in the morning. Thanks for everyones help!

- Mon Jun 21, 2010 7:08 pm #201421 hook up a wire to the positive side of your battery and touch it to the green/yellow vtec solenoid wire, if it "clicks" the solenoid is good, and no a sohc solenoid will not fit on a b head

the p72 ecu sucks for a swap like that, in my expierence a chipped p28 will work so much better than a p72, with the vtec problem, did you put the head back together to stock specs?? did you take out the tap from the head? because that is were the oil comes in to the head for the vtec to function, and if you are using the ls/v line, that is stupid, the oil pressure is a little lower, it works "fine" but not perfect, im a person who strives for perfection when building cars, guess thats why i own a shop...

if you have any questions shoot me a pm i have wire diagrams and all that crap

hit me up so you dont want to kill your car...

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:30 am #201503

hook up a wire to the positive side of your battery and touch it to the green/yellow vtec solenoid wire, if it "clicks" the solenoid is good, and no a sohc solenoid will not fit on a b head

the p72 ecu sucks for a swap like that, in my expierence a chipped p28 will work so much better than a p72, with the vtec problem, did you put the head back together to stock specs?? did you take out the tap from the head? because that is were the oil comes in to the head for the vtec to function, and if you are using the ls/v line, that is stupid, the oil pressure is a little lower, it works "fine" but not perfect, im a person who strives for perfection when building cars, guess thats why i own a shop...

if you have any questions shoot me a pm i have wire diagrams and all that crap

hit me up so you dont want to kill your car...

so i tested it and it clicked so i ghuess thats a start, it stopped throwing the code but is still acing like its in "limp" mode, I did put the head together to stockl specs except fo the head studs which were torques to 75 ft. lbs., i did try a chipped p28 with a p30 map and it ran a lot worse than the p72, i did take the tap where the ls-v line was run out and put the factory plug back in. I to try for perfection when building cars and out of all the ones ive built this one has been giving me the most issues of all and out of the past 2 weeks of workin on it im just a little irratated with it at the moment...ive also double checked the wiring on the pins on the ecu and they look correct....i can ry and get a pic or 2 up if you'd like....thanks for the help btw

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 8:37 am #201505 you are welcome for the reply, not many people are as comited to the site like i am other than the owner... lol, ok, so the click is a great thing!!!!! you are one step closer to the problem, i have experienced a problem with fuel delivery so you should replace the gromets on the fuel rail,

the groments are the flat washers that surround the fuel supply line from the filter tot he rail

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:11 am #201510

you are welcome for the reply, not many people are as comited to the site like i am other than the owner... lol, ok, so the click is a great thing!!!!! you are one step closer to the problem, i have experienced a problem with fuel delivery so you should replace the gromets on the fuel rail,

the groments are the flat washers that surround the fuel supply line from the filter tot he rail

k they shouldnt be more than a few bucks from honda.... the only thing id be curious about is why they might go bad i didint remove the fuel line from the filter during the swap just off the rail...i just took it out for a spin btw and still no cel but it seems like it the timing is retarded then all of a sudden fine...i guess that could have to do with fuel delivery but also its refusing to hold idle after driving so i have to continually keep my foot on the gas and have it up near 2k or else it floods and dies...no on cold start up it will hold idle at 850 - 900 rpms without issue ill gtrab some pix real fast though.

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:35 pm #201545 so some more bad news! so i drove it for about an hour this morning to drop a friend off and stop at honda to get those washer gaskets well it started laging really bad and then started spraying oil again...the oil spraying started after i changed the oil the other night. but the one i guess half good thing it did give me was a cel 4 or 5 of them to be exact 10, 21, 22, and either 42 or 43 or both any thoughts?

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:37 pm #201546 at the rail, like you said you took the fuel line off the rail when doing the swap, change the gaskets there and you should be good with your idle problem, ive seen it many times, fuel delivery in these engines is key and if you get a bad seal on the rail anywere you will have crappy idle, poor performance and it will fall flat on its face, change that FIRST because its cheap then go from there

let me know how it works for you

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:40 pm #201547 that sucks!

did you double gasket your filter??? it happens!

hmm.. let me think on those codes,

what engine did your car have before the swap and what year is your b16?

what harness did you use? is it vtec or not?

lemme know and i will look at my factory manuals.....

"smoke me a kipper ill be back before breakfast" - ace rimmer

- Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:21 am #201669

that sucks!

did you double gasket your filter??? it happens!

hmm.. let me think on those codes,

what engine did your car have before the swap and what year is your b16?

what harness did you use? is it vtec or not?

lemme know and i will look at my factory manuals.....

i double checked the filter gasket, it was fine but i figured maybe i messed up the oil cooler gasket, ive heard of that being a common problem. all i know is the guy i got the short block from said it was out of a eg6 sirII, as far aas the head goes i beleive it;s an a3, the harness was a vtec harness and i had had a shop originally wire in vtec but since theses issues and the ks thing i re wired it more directly, yea ive been going through my manuals to it can be a real headache! i guess ill pick up those gaskets in the morning.