d16z6 reving weird

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
 Reply

By AutoXCivic
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:22 am #190768 Try adjusting the idle screw on the TB it may be that it was adjusted to compensate for a high idle before. Also try giving it a little gas as you are starting it, it may get it to start up properly then if it still dies there's something else going on.

By imtyson
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 2:42 am #190772 would that be the cause of it dying when i start it up?
if this helps at all, what i did to day was took out the FIV and cleaned it. http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/how-t ... e-fix.html i used those instructions. i turned the plunger all the way in, not sure if that makes a difference at all. after that i removed the IACV and cleaned that up as well. http://www.team-integra.net/sections/ar ... cleID=1174. i need input fast cause i need to drive to school in the morning! thanks guys.

By AutoXCivic
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:00 am #190779 An engine needs three things to run ... fuel, air and spark ... if it's dying I'm guessing one of these is either not happening ... or not happening enough.

So let's go over what you've done so far.

Cleaned IACV ... with what and did you reinstall it properly?
-If you cleaned it with brakleen, or carb cleaner and didn't let it dry out completely, then you may be getting some in the engine ... which will stop it dead.
-Also if one of the openings to the IACV is blocked the engine will not run.
-So did you start it after cleaning IACV, and did it run fine then? If so this is not the problem.


Tightened down FITV
-I'm not sure that this would cause it to die if not done properly or reinstalled incorrectly so I'll let someone else weigh in on that one.
-Did you try to start it after that? If so did it run? If so this also is not your problem?

Reset ECU
-How did you do it?
-I'm guessing pulling the fuse, since that's the method that was suggested on here.
-Was the fuse reinstalled correctly ... I know it's not hard, but you never know.
-Is the fuse still good, blown fuse may contribute to it.


Other things:
When you turn your key to the "ON" position ... the last click before you turn it to start the car ... can you hear your fuel pump prime?

Did you maybe bump another fuse, or relay when pulling the ECU backup fuse? This could make something not function properly because the circuit isn't closed?

That's all I can think of at the moment. Report back and I'll do what I can to help.

By AutoXCivic
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:04 am #190780 Those are both very good and wholly correct DIYs that you used. You may want to try using a hair dryer on your IACV to make sure you got all the brakleen/carb cleaner out of it. It's pretty volatile and should evaporate quickly, you could also set it next to a heater.

I would also try adjusting the TB screw. I'm not sure but I bet if it was adjusted to low the engine wouldn't get enough air to start properly.

By imtyson
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:23 am #190785 thanks autox for the quick response. i ended up just turning the throttle body screw to fix it. but now i have no heat! lol. everything is going wrong.

By AutoXCivic
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 7:59 am #190820 Glad you got that problem fixed. I was a little worried because I wasn't paying attention to the time and had to run to work (still there) and I just now had time to get back to the site. The heat ... I don't know what to do about that, but at least you got the car running again. I kind of suspected it wasn't getting enough air by how you described it trying to start (which is I suspected the idle screw was too tight).

Feels good to fix something "yourself" doesn't it?
User avatar

By suspendedHatch
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:36 pm #190888 Does the blower motor not come on? Does the heat select switch operate the valve on your firewall?

By imtyson
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:51 pm #191024 yes it does feel good to fix something yourself. but what i did, didnt help slove any of my problems lol. it still revs jumpy. but i dont want to mess with it anymore. seems like it got worst. but all is good. and suspenedhatch. im not sure what your asking. the air does blow through the vents but the air stays cool. idk what happened...... :? could it be a anti freeze problem? cause in the process i lost about a liter of anti freeze.

By AutoXCivic
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:38 pm #191056 You should top off your coolant. And you should bring the car to me, I had this problem recently and it's all gone now. Of course that would be a long drive, maybe you should just find someone up there who can help you.


Could be a vac leak ... those are always fun to track down.

By imtyson
- Thu Apr 29, 2010 11:52 pm #191061 yeah spring field would be a really really long drive lol. but its nice to know there is someone in oregon hahah. but anyways for the good news. i ended up flushing my coolant stystem and topping off the antifreeze with 50 50. now i finally got heat! :) it was getting crazy crazy hot driving home from school went all the way past hot so i had to stop at applebees to wait it out. but thanks for all the support guys much appreciated. :woot:

By imtyson
- Sat Aug 21, 2010 10:11 pm #209981 okay questions about the FIV. i was wondering if your suppose to tighten the FIV all the way down. or just close to all the way down. because since the change my car has been running hot.

By imtyson
- Wed Aug 25, 2010 6:52 pm #210541 i am now sure how you would do that..? can you explain please?
User avatar

By d-mon
- Thu Aug 26, 2010 4:33 pm #210672 Image
1. remove rad cap. if the engine has been running it may be underpressure and hot so be careful.
2. loosen the bleeder until coolant dribbles out.
3. start the car and run it until you are sure the t-stat is been opening. lower rad hose will be hot to the touch.
4. pour coolant in radiator and watch the bleeder until only coolant (no air) is coming out.
5. tighten bleeder.
6. put on radiator cap.
7. enjoy trouble free motoring.
 Reply
Return to D Series