has anyone used a mishimoto fan switch?

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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has anyone used a mishimoto fan switch?

By kinta94
- Wed May 26, 2010 5:48 am #196836 Im looking into getting one and wondering if it is worth it? i have to buy a new fan switch anyway because mine is shot. It should be plug and play as well correct?

other wise ill probably get a few at a junk yard or get new oem.
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By 93hatcheg
- Wed May 26, 2010 6:30 am #196852 i havent useed one but im actually gonna order one on pay day lol mine cracked and the sensor plug wont go on now. i heard they work awesome tho. i read somewhere that a guy had one in his gsr with a 160 thermostat (which i jusyt installed and he said his temp gauge would stay at about a 1/4 instead of a 1/2. good enough for me to pay the measly 38bucks

also yea its a plug and play unscreww the old one and screw in the new one
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By Eg6H2D
- Wed May 26, 2010 9:29 pm #197002 I have Mishimoto Fan switch installed. about a year now. definately kicks in the fan sooner and keeps your coolant cooler. keeps mines right under the little temp thing. goos. just need to use a 20mm deep socket.

Just remember when putting a thermostat that opens alot cooler, that your vtec might not function properly all the time as it's set to a certain engine temp also along with oil pressure for vtec engines. the cooler 160 and below wont let the engine get to the proper operating temp. if anything, id go with the 170 thermostat by gates racing. 10 degreess makes a differemce.
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By suspendedHatch
- Sat May 29, 2010 5:27 pm #197640 That's too cold to run your engine temp. To vaporize the fuel and make the most power, the engine needs to maintain 195 F. That's how they were designed. I know it sounds high but it's actually the bleeding edge between performance and overheating. That's why the fan kicks on when you go just slightly higher.

If you run too cold, your ECU will be stuck in warm up mode, indicated by unusually high idle. You'll run rich with retarded timing which is costing you power and accelerating engine wear. You'll fail the emissions test as well. If you drive long enough, the ECU catches on to the problem and will throw a CEL.
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By Eg6H2D
- Mon May 31, 2010 8:04 pm #197980
suspendedHatch wrote:That's too cold to run your engine temp. To vaporize the fuel and make the most power, the engine needs to maintain 195 F. That's how they were designed. I know it sounds high but it's actually the bleeding edge between performance and overheating. That's why the fan kicks on when you go just slightly higher.

If you run too cold, your ECU will be stuck in warm up mode, indicated by unusually high idle. You'll run rich with retarded timing which is costing you power and accelerating engine wear. You'll fail the emissions test as well. If you drive long enough, the ECU catches on to the problem and will throw a CEL.


No CEL yet.

Also No emissions here in Mass for cars years 95 and below.. =]
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