Hot Z6

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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Hot Z6

By Butterzz
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 2:49 pm #204257 Alright so I know my way in and out of my Z6, but this problem seems like it could be a couple of different things, so I want a 2nd opinion.

I have a D16Z6 with 450cc DSM injectors, ARP headstuds torqued to 70lbs, boosted to 8psi with a .50 a/r T3/T4. I have a phearable base map, but the guy at phearable says my car shouldn't overheat provided my car is put together right. A good friend of mine that tuned his own boosted D series told me I would be fine with a stock fuel pump, but I'm considering buying a walbro.

The temperature on the car slowly creeps up whether it's idling, or driving but it never passes the red line on the temp gauge. It just settles on that red line and stays there. I know the gauge isn't broken because I blew the headgasket a little while back and it overheated.

My thoughts are it could be one of 2 things:

1) My OEM 18 year old fuel pump isn't what it used to be and my fuel pressure is low, making the car run lean
2) I need to sync my timing using a timing light because my Distributor timing is different from the timing on my tune

I've removed the thermostat completely just to make sure there wasn't a problem there. I have a CEL but I don't know how to check it. I personally think it's my fuel pump.

Any suggestions?
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By teal_dx
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 3:55 pm #204260 step 1 is to find out the CEL: http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=1558

What's your coolant situation? is it ever low?
I don't think bad ignition timing would make the engine overheat, just run sluggish or ping.

Let us know the CEL and we'll go from there :thumb:

By Butterzz
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:16 pm #204262 Yeah... I've tried following that guide and It isnt detailed enough. My plug has 4 wires coming out of it, and it was located under the dash of my car, not under the carpet.

There's a 3 connector plug and a 2 connector plug; both have 2 wires coming out of them. Which one do I bridge? Any specific wire colour to go by?

EDIT: Scratch that, I've sorted it out. I got codes 6 (Water temperature sensor. Good chance this is my problem), 7 (TPS), 14 (IACV), 36 (traction control? Maybe something to do with my 2 step?).
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By teal_dx
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:24 pm #204309
Butterzz wrote:EDIT: Scratch that, I've sorted it out. I got codes 6 (Water temperature sensor. Good chance this is my problem), 7 (TPS), 14 (IACV), 36 (traction control? Maybe something to do with my 2 step?).


Check your plugs to be sure that your TPS (throttle position sensor- on throttle body) and your IACV (idle air control valve- on back of intake manifold) aren't switched. They can plug into each other and cause CELs for both when switched.

US civics never had traction control but some overseas did.
What ECU & software are you using?
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By JUICE
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:46 pm #204311 sounds like the water temp sensor should fix the over-heating issue.



you should DEFINITELY look into getting a better fuel pump (walbro 255). for what they cost, it's not worth the risk of fuel starvation from the stocker

By Butterzz
- Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:51 pm #204335
teal_dx wrote:Check your plugs to be sure that your TPS and your IACV aren't switched.

I thought it was the MAP sensor and the TPS that had the same plugs, but I'll check it anyway. The car is running fine, so I don't really understand why I would be getting CEL for those sensors.
teal_dx wrote:What ECU & software are you using?

I'm using a chipped USDM P28 with a basemap from phearable.net.

I have a civic EX-V (EG8) from Canada that has ABS. Could that be the reason behind the traction control code?
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By teal_dx
- Tue Jul 13, 2010 2:02 am #204346 oops, yeah it's the MAP and TPS that can be switched :thumb:

And you're right when they are switched, the engine does not run right so I think you're good there.

I'd have a tuner look at your ecu. do you know what software it has? (Crome, Neptune, eCtune, Hondata etc..)

By Butterzz
- Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:19 am #204367 I'm not exactly sure, but here is a link to where I ordered:

http://www.phearable.net/shoppingcart/p ... -p-60.html

The more I work on the car the more I'm convincing myself it's fuel delivery related. The car sputters if it goes anywhere near 0 inHg of vacuum or into boost which means it's leaning out. I'm gonna pick up a walbro and go from there.

As far as the TPS and IACV error codes, I have no idea why they're going off..
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By suspendedHatch
- Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:24 pm #204404 It sounds like you're well on your way to a solution, but I just wanted to point out that neither of your two options would cause the COOLANT to run hot. They will both increase exhaust and combustion temps but wont effect the coolant temp enough for you to see on your dash gauge.

By Butterzz
- Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:14 pm #206467 Alright so I have my new fuel pump in, but I haven't changed the coolant temp sensor yet. Which sensor would it be? The one on the thermostat housing or the one on the front side of the block?

Also, should something happen if I unplug the TPS with the car is running? I unplugged it by accident when I was messing with something on the car today, and there was no change in the way the car idled.
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By Eg6H2D
- Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:44 pm #206598 Yea when your having a coolant/temp issue always check these first.

CEL. if you have one,

Thermostat,
Engine Coolant temp sensor Under the dizzy like teal said
Fan switch make sure it's turning your fan on.
Fan relays..

as for your TPS, make sure it's at it's proper voltage setting. if not it will make the car run a bit rich..

IACV clean it up a bit see if it helps?

Make sure you have the right plug for the TPS and the IACV in the right place since they are like right next to each other.. MAP sensor plug is identical to your TPS plug..
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By Eg6H2D
- Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:48 pm #206602
Butterzz wrote:Alright so I have my new fuel pump in, but I haven't changed the coolant temp sensor yet. Which sensor would it be? The one on the thermostat housing or the one on the front side of the block?

Also, should something happen if I unplug the TPS with the car is running? I unplugged it by accident when I was messing with something on the car today, and there was no change in the way the car idled.


the sensor on the thermo housing is your fan switch. .

about your TPS if it's working and you unplug it your idle should make a slight dip like go down then your Check engine light will light up. it will still run though. if it didnt do anyhting, then it's time to change it.. because you will continously have a Check engine light for it. and pooooooor performance..

Here is a very helpful link on calibrating your TPS when you get a new one. you can get a new one from ebay with the gasket... this link is very very detailed!!!!


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread ... on-the-TPS

By Butterzz
- Fri Jul 30, 2010 3:45 pm #206782 Awesome, thanks for the help.

Like any other EG owner, I have 2 of everything which includes a spare intake manifold. I'm going to swap the throttle body and see if the problem persists.

The car is working 10x better with the new fuel pump, but it smells a little rich and seems to be running a little rough; which are the symptoms of a bad TPS as you described. I'll change the coolant temp sensor and throttle body and let you guys know how it turns out.
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