Post YOUR Hatchback here
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By chris_barnes
#296240 Thanks man :) I've decided to upgrade a bit, sth like budget all motor. I'm currently in the process of buying parts, and I already got some:

B16A PR3 pistons

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Used but in good condition :)

AEBS Whirlwind intake manny

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Hondata thermal gasket

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Probably will get some TypeR cams and aftermarket cam gears, new springs/retainers then rebuild and remap :D
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By chris_barnes
#301527 I have not posted in a while, I bought a set of B18C6 cams from some dude in UK, who scammed me and sent me B18C4 ones for the humble price of 200+ GBP...Anyways, I was desparate for a day or two, then decided - I WILL buy Type R cams, and got some from a friend here in Sofia - B18C-R cams, here they are:

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The irony behind the type R cams is that I actually translated the cam identification thread from FF-Squad for the Bulgarian forum I am a member of, a few months ago, and I happened to s*ck d*ck with these fake cams :D Anyways, I have ordered some new OEM retainers and a few bearings for the gearbox. I only need some piston rings and valve springs and will start the rebuild.
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By chris_barnes
#308444 After a week at the mechanic's shop, the engine is assembled and running. Setup is as follows:

- AEBS intake manifold
- HONDATA intake manifold gasket
- New OEM Valve seals, headgasket and gas filter
- New ОЕМ retainers
- Skunk2 Tuner series valvesprings
- PR3 pistons taken out of a B16, plus new RIK piston rings
- ARP2000 rod studs
- B18C-R cams

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By chris_barnes
#308603 Thans man. Here I am, again pondering on what header should I use. I've had this 4-2-1 cheap ebay header and it definitely does the job, but I want to have something that would complement the upgrades I have done and optimize the potential of the rebuilt engine. I like the looks of RMF Narrow header, has anyone had any experience with such?
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By chris_barnes
#313729 I bought a tri-y header

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And NGK type R spark plugs:

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And fitted them...

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By rootbeer_eg
#313730 is that the packing grease on the header near the flange by the head

if it is you might want to clean it off or itll burn itself onto the header and itll be nasty when it does
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By chris_barnes
#313854 I think it actually did, but stays the same, does not change. May try to clean it off with some alcohol or paint thinner.
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By Punksz6
#313882 :thumb:
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By chris_barnes
#314267 The car was tuned on a dyno yesterday, here is the result:

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By chris_barnes
#315652 Got a new tranny S80, 4,78 FD, car is much better now :)
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By d-mon
#315653 nice work!
i recommend a subframe brace for the bigger bar.
lol, when i hear chris barnes, i think
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By chris_barnes
#315677 Thanks. Actually rear swaybar is only 2-3 mm thicker than the SOHC VTEC one I had, does not need subframe. If I was to put 22mm then I'd consider it. I'm planning on fixing some appearance issues, few spots of rust and dings here and there :)
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By chris_barnes
#336435 Haven't written here in a while, but work on the car has not stopped. Here's what I did:

1) Energy suspension for the front:

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2) Bought some ENkei wheels from Mazda MX-5 Miata:

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3) Genuine Spoon strut bars - front and rear:

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4) New bucket seats by FK Automotive:

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5) Removed AC:

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6) Got HEL braided brake lines + Tegiwa break stopper - the car definitely stops better now.

7) UR underdrive crank pulley:

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Currently the car is in the mechanic shop. Head has been removed. I've decided to have the head port matched and ported + mill it so I get CR of 12:1. I bought a set of Edelbrock cam gears which will be fitted once the engine is assembled. I will also add a 65mm TB.

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