Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:01 am #318056 I bought a new throttle body and await its arrival. Update will follow after I put it on.

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Mon Nov 26, 2012 8:35 pm #320923 Hello friends!

The update: Civica now runs smooth as can be. ONLY once she warms up. But before that time, its like she is in an MMA fight and is in a triangle choke and I'm her heart pressing on the gas peddle trying to keep her going! If I stop so will she.

Any ideas?

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:09 pm #320930 any check engine light? is the idle surging?
clean your iacv? clean the fitv?

street machines > dyno queens
z6 turbo power FTW tuned on crome

- Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:31 pm #320936 Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:17 pm #320989

any check engine light? is the idle surging?
clean your iacv? clean the fitv?

No Check Engine Light
Idle does not surge, just drops to nothing then goes back to normal. Repeats.
IACV is clean
I have not cleaned the FITV

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:19 pm #320990

Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.

There are no codes related to this issue.

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Tue Nov 27, 2012 1:17 pm #320993

Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.

There are no codes related to this issue.

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?

Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Tue Nov 27, 2012 3:48 pm #320997

Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.

There are no codes related to this issue.

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?

Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.

1) Correct
2) It does but it's not guitar string tight. Should it be?
3) No, I will tonight
4) I did replace the TB and I did lose about a 1/4 cup of coolant. How would I get the air out of the system?


Thank you!

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Tue Nov 27, 2012 6:08 pm #321013

Would check the TPS or throttle position sensor, if it is out the car will run horrible. and if you put a new throttle body on it came with one. There is a voltage reading that it should be in when it is closed and fully open.

Check your codes first and see what that comes up with.

There are no codes related to this issue.

And if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the idle act wonky the whole time and not for just the first 5-6 mins?

Ok well from your original description was hard to tell what you where asking.

So if I have this straight it idles normal but falls low and comes back up for the first 5 or so minutes after the car is started cold correct?

Also the cable that comes off the throttle body that runs to the trans does it have tension. That is what they call the down shift cable.

Automatics are a pain when they start to have issues like this because of how all the system interact. Have you checked the coolant level?

It sounds to be the fast Idle valve that is directly under the throttle body there is a little piece of rubber in there if it gets knocked out of place that it will surge. If you replaced the throttle body then you would have had to lost some coolant there might be air in the system.

1) Correct
2) It does but it's not guitar string tight. Should it be?
3) No, I will tonight
4) I did replace the TB and I did lose about a 1/4 cup of coolant. How would I get the air out of the system?


Thank you!

No it should just be snug, and all you have to do it take the radiator cap off and start the engine. fill the radiator if you don't see enough coolant in it first. But then you sit and wait for about 1-2 hrs depending on temp outside. You will want the thermostat to open fully which should kick your radiator fan on. But if you watch the coolant you might see bubbles come out which is the air pockets. once the thermostat is open then let it run for a few more min and then put the rad cap back on and done.

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:01 am #321615 UPDATE:

Okay there was a lot of air in the cooling system. Now one this cold day she starts right up but spends more time around 400-600rpms then spikes up to about 1500rpms for only a second. The good news is she does not choke out and turn off anymore!

So the bubbles stopped and the car doesn't turn off but there is still an idle issue. What should I do next?

BTW: Thanks to your advice I was able to get a friends Accord running again and she thanks you all!

They call me Mr. Brown Rice

- Wed Dec 05, 2012 11:02 am #321616 UPDATE:

Okay there was a lot of air in the cooling system. Now one this cold day she starts right up but spends more time around 400-600rpms then spikes up to about 1500rpms for only a second. The good news is she does not choke out and turn off anymore!

So the bubbles stopped and the car doesn't turn off but there is still an idle issue. What should I do next?

BTW: Thanks to your advice I was able to get a friends Accord running again and she thanks you all!

They call me Mr. Brown Rice