Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Fri Jun 15, 2007 10:52 pm #11237 You could do that, yes.
It'll cost twice the money so if you're on a budget, or having problems with the insurance (like people in Belgium or the UK)...

- Sat Jun 16, 2007 3:14 am #11242 a cheap solution .... Hammer or duck tape they can fix any problem you have !

92 civic cx sold!!
horizon gray 94 LX-A wrecked :/
white 92 civic Si (traded)
primered 94 teg sold
92 civic DX sold!!
93 red EX coupe parted out!
93 LS400 Midnight indigo sold!
92 civic LX sold!!
90 240sx sold!
93 faded black EX coupe

- Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:19 pm #13454 sweet write up, my hatch has the B7 in it and ive been thinking about swapping it, but i think i might try this. sounds sweet

- Sun Jul 08, 2007 6:22 pm #13473

sweet write up, my hatch has the B7 in it and ive been thinking about swapping it, but i think i might try this. sounds sweet

B7 rule !

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 1:19 am #13530 The single best upgrade for a single cam with out vtec is a vtec head.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:54 am #13544 and ofcourse when i say that im going to try this a buddy on another site tells me he'll sell me a d16z6 drop out for $250, so i might have to do that now lol

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 6:05 am #13560 D16 SOHC VTEC engines are weak.
Stroke determines displacement, the rest under the head is all the same, D13, D14, D15, D16, not sure about D17 tho.

If you do a mini me, there is a lot of work to be done.
If you're driving a dual point injected D15, and you do all I've stated, you would have to pay about 600 dollar, if you already have multipoint, it cuts costs down by... 250 bucks I think (don't know what it'll cost ya in the States).
A well performed mini-me will cost you about... 1000 dollar.
I'd save my money for a B-series swap then.
And the mini-me will only produce about 10hp more, for that amount of money...

And the best upgrade for a single cam non-VTEC D-series?
B-serie swap
Turbo.

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:03 pm #13568 Mini me swap is VERY simple. Just swap the head over and run two wires to the ecu. Your done. I did it in about 30 minutes at work. The guy is now running my old chipped p28 too. Nice and quick. Mini me swap also has a nice CR compared to a straigh non vtec and even a vtec single cam.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 12:11 pm #13571 but i heard stories about those mini-me's.. that the oil consumption could raise badly..

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 5:52 pm #13633 we havent noticed anything yet. The car has been a mini me for over a year now. Nothing is wrong with it. After he put the head on his car felt faster than my d16y8. Reved better, and just felt stronger. We never raced, but I would say he would win. I had raced 2 mini me swaps before we did his. THey both beat me. With the swap you get higher compression, around 10.5:1 with out changing pistons. you get a better flowing head and vtec. A p28 ecu is still fairly cheap and I gave him my chipped one when I went LS. He also got my head and he got an exhuast to wrap it all up. its definitly faster than what my car was.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Mon Jul 09, 2007 6:13 pm #13643 all you do is pull the dowl between cylinders 2 and 3 and that allows the oil to flow for vtec. use a corresponding timing belt to the head your usin plug a p28 in and run 2 wires done

92 hatch build in progress.....

Snap-On Tools!

TEAM NSN to the fullest!!

East Coast is the Right Coast!!!

- Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:27 pm #21985 *Wipes dust of thread*

I agree, a mini-me is fairly easy to do.
Only thing is the costs of it.
In Holland, it would set you back 600 euro if you want to do it the right way...

But chances are it'll take a lot of oil.
An engine builds up tension between shortblock and head, because of several reasons.
The minute you take the old head of, tension is released and the shortblock is slightly deformed, causing oilconsumption when you put the head back on.
So if you don't want to spend all that money, especially when trying to save up for a B/H/K series, this is the way to go.

But the reason I got this thread up;
after some research, I came to the conclusion that an adjustable camgear is NOT needed, it's only for the looks on this set-up.
Adj. camgears are (in short) only needed when you buy (a) certain aftermarket camshaft(s).
These are often regrinded OEM cams, so (I don't know what it's called best in English...) point zero has moved, causing your valves making love to the pistons... not nice.
You can correct this with adj. camgears, but when just using a stock cam, or a cam grinded to specs from a blank cam, not nescesary.

The extra horsepower you gain is because of changing the ignition timing.
It is better to control this from within the ECU.

So you can save more money by NOT buying an adj. camgear.

- Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:25 pm #22852 did u get the dyno numbers for us?

- Mon Sep 10, 2007 9:59 pm #22857 Not yet

There are not a lot of reliable dyno's around where I live.

- Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:38 am #22876 Im kinda eager to see the results. This is a long shot, but I was on my way home when a new Si tailed me with 3 dudes in the car and they were making faces cause I was only going 10 over the speed limit...so i waited and let them pass me. The car had dealer tags, so I kicked it down and hit the gas and slowly passed them! In my D16 coupe with suspension, intake and exhaust but nothing serious! Shoulda seen their faces as I slowly passed em!
Them


Me