Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:57 pm #308483

damn you guys where right! I didnt even move it a bit. took a short cut and just disconnected the linkage from the shifter itself and dragged the whole bar out with it.

now that the engine is out, I realized the engine is rebuilt. it has that little warranty stamp that melts if u over heat.
you guys think I can just swap out the crank and install new crank n rod bearings?
or should I just tear down and replace pistons, and rings too?

thats what i did too easier to get teh pin out that way

94 EX coupe (sold 1/2016)
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?t=27951

93 DX coupe build 2.0 (R.I.P.)
http://civic-eg.com/viewtopic.php?p=331386#331386

- Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:33 pm #308486 lmao i used them tough straps and i lft it from the mounts thats how i pull my engines out i did about 4 swaps on my first coupe 2 summers ago in one month all were b18s that i got for free then before i sold it i dropped a gsr in there hahah good times

http://tinyurl.com/Civic-EG-Presidential-Election

Check out my build thread!!!!

- Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:09 am #308492 How long does it usually take to remove those things?

_____
D16Z6asaurus

- Mon Jun 18, 2012 5:28 am #308584

How long does it usually take to remove those things?

it's easily doable in 3 hrs. by yourself

with air tools tho.

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:27 am #308664 That seems like a long time, I just pulled a motor threw the bottom of a members car in like an 1 hr and half. and he still rocks a/c and P/s. I did mine in less than an hr. The trick is to not remove anything that is not needed like the wiring harness or dizzy or Intake manifold. air hammer the pin out of the shift linkage and then knock it the rest of the way out. Just don't loose it.

The most common thing is that people try to take off more than they need to when you can do that after it out of the car. Makes it a ton easier. same way going back in

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 12:52 am #308666

That seems like a long time, I just pulled a motor threw the bottom of a members car in like an 1 hr and half. and he still rocks a/c and P/s. I did mine in less than an hr. The trick is to not remove anything that is not needed like the wiring harness or dizzy or Intake manifold. air hammer the pin out of the shift linkage and then knock it the rest of the way out. Just don't loose it.

The most common thing is that people try to take off more than they need to when you can do that after it out of the car. Makes it a ton easier. same way going back in

good to know now. this was my first civic. I had no clue where to begin. but it's out, now time to degrease this mess.

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 1:39 am #308676 That is cool if you need any info feel free to pm me I have done this too many times to count and could break it down step by step to make it easier if you needed.

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Tue Jun 19, 2012 4:32 am #308713

That is cool if you need any info feel free to pm me I have done this too many times to count and could break it down step by step to make it easier if you needed.

thnx a lot man. I will deff need help when assembly time comes.

- Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:17 am #308834 does anyone know where the small hose on the left goes connected to?
it was just capped off when I got the car.

- Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:22 am #308835

does anyone know where the small hose on the left goes connected to?
it was just capped off when I got the car.

Those are both coolant hoses that loop into the intake manifold or the thermostat depends on which way it goes back on I will try to take a pic of the back of one of two z6s that are on engine stands in my garage when I get home in the morning and I can tell you exactly where they go.

95 EJ1 BG33P - RC
95 EJ2 BG33P - DRC

Coupe Crew #20

- Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:07 pm #308922 the one I'm talking about is on the left, and it is closest to the water pump. it is just plugged off.

the shorter line goes under the throttle body.