DIY: injector replacement

D15, D16, D17 and Mini-Me swaps
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DIY: injector replacement

By Classiccarsrule85
- Tue Sep 02, 2008 5:09 pm #68066 Well if you are upgrading you motor for more power increasing the airflow is a good start but with increased air your motor might have a hard time making power due to the a/f ratio being disrupted well easiest way to fix that is to get injectors that pump more fuel into your cylinder.

My set up-$ i spent to get this job done
-I run a n/a Z6 with a ported and polished intake to accept a b18b1 throttle body

-I have a large k&n air filter (cone style) on a large intake pipe

I ended up haveing problems to where my car was faster before i did the tb port and polish. so what i ended up doing was looking for a good ol fix and my fix was using the b18b1 injectors

Bought used from my local junk yard for $5.00

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Now for those with turbo set-ups id research what will be best for your application and what will work in unisen with the parts you are using.

So lets get this started

Tools needed
-10 mm socket and socket ratchet (deepwell makes it easier though if you have a 10mm regular and a extension it should work fine)
-flat head screwdriver
-23mm wrench (or you could use a large farmers wrench or large pair of plyers)

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Procedure

Step 1-make sure the engine is cool and place it in a nice shady area (just a personal preference makes things more confy)

Step 2-remove the neg battery cable (you are messing with electronics here just a precaution.

Step 3-here we go make note of how things are routed this will make it easier to put back together

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Step 4-Start by pulling off the wires off the injectors easies way is take your flat head screw driver move one side of the metal pin over from the center where is wont spring back. Then apply some pull not too much it dosent take much to get the plugs off....then take the flat head screw driver and slide the other pin from the middle this should allow the plug to slip off the injector. Do this 3 more times on the other remaining injectors and then your off to step 5

Helpful hint: after removing the plug just push the pin back to its closed position this will help it not fall off or get bent.

Step 5-I found it easier to remove the wire harness from the fuel rail before removing anything else since its hard to get to the fuel pressure reg bolt closest to the harness. there are 2 10mm nuts and the harness pulls off just set it off to the side for now.

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Step 6- Once the harness is removed you now have access to the bolts for the presure regulator (this is a good thing to remove slowly fuel may spray at you)

Helpful hint: lossen one bolt (10mm) a little bit and then do the other this should allow the pressure regulator to release from the rail releasing the pressure from the fuel rail and line.

Then take off both 10mm bolts and unplug the vaccum line from either end of the hose mine just came off easier at the intake. and set aside the fuel pressure regulator

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Step 7-Now you have a couple more things to take off but its not hard so lets get that fuel line off the other end of the fuel rail. this is where you will use your 23mm wrench or what have you. once again loosen slowly there may still be pressure in the rail(just not as much). lossen the nut off the rail and set it aside now there will be a sorta lock washer remove that and then remove the line itself and just set it aside though try and keep it up what I did was set it on the nub of my intake for the breather.

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And after that you are almost ready to get the fuel rail itself off

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Step 8-Now there are 3 10 mm nuts holding the fuel rail on remove those and set those aside now carefully remove the rail (note the injectors may come off with the rail so be careful). not once thats done your are ready to replace the injectors

Helpful hint: there are 4 large rings in the intake that the injectors slide into now these may come off with the injectors just carefully take them off and replace them back into the intake manifold

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Step 9-Now if your injectors came out like mine did stuck in the fuel rail like usual...

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Easiest way to get them out is apply some pressure to them by pulling and twisting slowly from side to side the reason they are stuf is because of the 0 ring that is ontop of them. now once they are out the easiest way I found to put them back in is to put them into the rail before putting them into the intake manifold.

you may try to set them in the intake manifold first but i found it difficult for the injectors to sit into the rail.

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Now just reinstall going backwards from here

Helpful hint: once finished reinstalling everything check for tightness and prime your rail by turning the key on until you hear the fuel pump kick on and kick off do this 3 times or so check for leaks if none start your car up and have fun with the results there may be a noticable gain or you may hear a different engine note (i heard a different note when i reved it sounds more powerful but havent taken my car out yet to fully test it lol.....


Well all n all it took me about 20mins including takeing the pictures so its a simple upgrade that can produce nice results.

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By BAXTER_EJ1
- Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:28 pm #68075 Wouldn't stock injectors be able to handle that increased air flow just fine? I heard stock injectors are good up to like 450hp or something? :?
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By Classiccarsrule85
- Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:46 pm #68076 probaly but you never know and mine i think had high miles on them and where Cx injectors (guy who owned n swaped in this motor majorly screwed up ive been fixing things left and right to get it running perfect
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By suspendedHatch
- Thu Sep 04, 2008 4:18 am #68339 Nice pictures but I tend to prefer to the repair manual. You should relieve the fuel pressure first by removing the gas cap and then at the fuel filter (there's a special nut on it for this reason). Also, you need to LIGHTLY lubricate the injector o-rings before you put them back in. A very light smudge of engine oil will work. It's very easy for them to get pinched up in there. Put the injectors in the rail first, then push the whole thing into the intake manifold. The orifice in the intake manifold will be very dirty. Have carb cleaner on hand.

The stock injectors are good only to about 200hp if you have the 240CC. The DX/CX/VX/LX (basically all the SOHC non-VTEC's) have 190CC. The 94, 95 Integra injectors are the same 240CC as those found on the 92-95 Civic EX/Si.

It is not a good idea to put oversized injectors on your engine unless you have full control over your fuel system ie programmable engine management. You don't need to upgrade your fuel injectors unless you know that you are running above 80% duty cycle at the engine's highest fuel demand (OEM Honda injectors are actually unique in that you can run them reliably almost all the way to 100% duty cycle).

The mods the OP has indicated does not call for an injector upgrade; which is fine, because the injectors he put in are the correct size for his engine (same as stock). But if a person were to put them in say, a non VTEC SOHC, it will cause the engine to run rich and REDUCE power. That's right, in many cases, running RICHER costs you power. You can gain power by leaning out the mixture which is tuned overly rich from the factory as a failsafe.

Running rich also causes bore wash which means that the unburned fuel is washing the oil off the walls of the combustion chamber leading to increased engine wear. Then on down the line to the O2 sensor and cat converter which will both fail prematurely. You fail smog, you waste gas, you get black smoke from your exhaust, you get popping sounds of unburned fuel igniting in your exhaust system. All in all, you look like a ricer.
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By z6civicex
- Thu Sep 04, 2008 10:31 pm #68391 sorry to burst your bubble but those injectors are the same size as your old d-series injectors. 240cc
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By Classiccarsrule85
- Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:07 am #68436 yea figured that out the same day i put them in but at least i know these are lower mileage injectors compared to my high mileage ones.

And i just wanted to do a how to and this one came first actually i have two on the way

custom eg emblem

and custom center councel replacement but yea they are taking longer than i thought
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By hatchin06
- Mon Dec 01, 2008 2:56 pm #81285 Fix pics plz?
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By Classiccarsrule85
- Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:00 pm #81295 i had to delete these photos so I could put others up on so sorry about that but yea

probaly just delete this thread admin please n thank you...
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By suspendedHatch
- Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:48 am #81853 That sucks. It was a great write-up. You could have just taken out the part about the power upgrade (didn't pan out) and left it for people who have a bad injector, who want to send their injectors for service, or for people who are upgrading to another type of injector since it will be basically an identical process.
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By brandoff88
- Fri Oct 25, 2013 6:52 pm #338056 this actually helped me even without pics when I had to swap over the new fuel rail from the old motor to the new motor...if that made sense.. :P the fuel rail on my blown one was in better condition than the one that came with the import.
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