Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:11 am #340896

My mind hurts from gsr, b18c5, f20b, and h22a swap. Too many choices..

I know! F20C swap! All you need is an F20C, transmission, wiring harness, ECU, driveshaft, rear diff, half-shafts, cut and re-welded firewall and floor pan, custom front and rear sub-frames, rear hubs... Am I missing anything?

Almost forgot Instrument cluster and speed sensor too.

custom rear trailing arms too!

but no big, be done doing all that by the weekend.

My never-ending EG8 project.
Daily Driver '98 OBW

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:13 am #340897

My mind hurts from gsr, b18c5, f20b, and h22a swap. Too many choices..

I know! F20C swap! All you need is an F20C, transmission, wiring harness, ECU, driveshaft, rear diff, half-shafts, cut and re-welded firewall and floor pan, custom front and rear sub-frames, rear hubs... Am I missing anything?

Almost forgot Instrument cluster and speed sensor too.

custom rear trailing arms too!

but no big, be done doing all that by the weekend.

Of course!

You know, I've always wanted to find a donor 85-ish Accord sedan (with the reverse opening hood) and a wrecked S2k and do the full swap to it.

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:18 am #340900

Of course!

You know, I've always wanted to find a donor 85-ish Accord sedan (with the reverse opening hood) and a wrecked S2k and do the full swap to it.

that would be bad ass.

speaking of 85 accords, there was a barn near me on my drive into work that had an accord like that pulled out of it. it sat for a week, and when i finally went to go ask about it, i missed the guy who hauled to the scrap yard by 20 minutes.
ruined my day lol

My never-ending EG8 project.
Daily Driver '98 OBW

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:23 am #340901

Of course!

You know, I've always wanted to find a donor 85-ish Accord sedan (with the reverse opening hood) and a wrecked S2k and do the full swap to it.

that would be bad ass.

speaking of 85 accords, there was a barn near me on my drive into work that had an accord like that pulled out of it. it sat for a week, and when i finally went to go ask about it, i missed the guy who hauled to the scrap yard by 20 minutes.
ruined my day lol

I had a chance to buy a running one for $500 about 5 years ago, only thing wrong was a missing glove box and a dented door. But the owner backed out last minute cuz his daughter wanted it or something.

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 4:36 am #340903 Yeah right!! Lol

FS: Eg8 oem headllights+tail-lights, oem air intake box, jdm amber corners, d15 shaved/chrome valve cover, gauge cluster, sri, dc sports header

- Thu Jan 02, 2014 11:38 pm #340923 Ugh, ran into an annoying issue. I've got a Type-R style intake manifold and throttle body, with a GSR throttle cable and spring.

That's not a problem at all, it works perfect. But since it's flipped up, it rattles against the recently installed strut tower bar now lol. I may have to put some rubber between them.

At least it only makes noise when i'm back-revving from 7k+ down to below 4k, like when i'm shifting up.

- Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:25 am #340959 Too cold out to be working on cars. Got sand/salt/gravel on my eg this morning. Need to pressure wash it off asap!! Lol

FS: Eg8 oem headllights+tail-lights, oem air intake box, jdm amber corners, d15 shaved/chrome valve cover, gauge cluster, sri, dc sports header

- Sat Jan 04, 2014 12:45 am #340960

Too cold out to be working on cars. Got sand/salt/gravel on my eg this morning. Need to pressure wash it off asap!! Lol

I feel you there! I just worked on both cars this afternoon. Put my new CB radio into the sedan, reset the ignition timing, then pulled the hatchback and worked on it. Found out the coil went bad. Replaced it with my spare, retimed the hatch, then discovered the check engine light was on because of a code 6 ECT sensor. The "wire tuck" involved spade connectors and they shorted out. So in the freezing cold shop, I had to completely rebuild the connector with new pins (thank goodness for spare wiring harnesses off of Nissan's lol) but I couldn't save the sensor, so i'll have to get an new one tomorrow...

fun times..

Oh, and I finished sanding down the Nardi wheel for the sedan. Just gotta re-stain it and it'll be ready to mount.

- Sat Jan 04, 2014 3:42 am #340965 geeze man, you did alot. lol I need to go by Acura tomorrow to pick up a some bulb for my hazard switch. I noticed it the other day that it doesn't light up at night. haha

When you set your timing, do you just clocked the distributor bolt area? I retarded timing all the way to get it to pass emissions a few months ago. Car was sluggish as well, then I set it to where the bolt is in the middle of the hole.

FS: Eg8 oem headllights+tail-lights, oem air intake box, jdm amber corners, d15 shaved/chrome valve cover, gauge cluster, sri, dc sports header

- Sun Jan 05, 2014 3:58 am #340990 Anyone know where I could find a roll bar, 8 point cage or something of the sort for our cars? I'm not worried about it being a bolt-in or weld in at the moment, just seeing if there is anything already chassis made. I'll possibly be running in the 10.50 index this year, depending on what I'll need to pass tech I might just stick with the 11.50 index. Thanks peeps!

Yeah I have a 4dr, no you can't have a ride.

- Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:38 am #341807 [vent]

So I pulled my Sedan into the shop to patch a portion of the exhaust, which involved putting a new sleeve in place. That was the easy part. But then i'm sitting there in the car letting it idle and then decide that now's the perfect time to pull my gauge cluster out and figure out why my speedo was being finicky and fixed itself temporarily whenever I pounded on the dash.

I pull it out, check the screws and grounds and such and put it back in. Well now a light went out, so I pull it again and twist the bulb, and it comes back on. Apparently the circuit board was off a little, so I check them all and put it back in, and now my fuel gauge drop down to zero and my temp gauge shot to max. So I pull it again and check it and now my temp gauge dropped down to zero and wont respond.

Long story short, my fuel gauge, temp gauge, and possibly my speedo don't work anymore! I searched on here and discovered that if you tighten the screws (like I did), you risk breaking the copper and I think I did that across the board, and I think there's a ground out in the flexible circuit board because the dimmer flickers everything when it's turned low...

And icing on the cake, I'm pissed off and I vent to my boyfriend what happened and he tells me to just calm down and get one from a junkyard. Never tell your pissed off girlfriend/wife, transgender or not, to calm down, it only infuriates her...

[/vent]

So now I need to get two clusters from junkyards. One for the Sedan, and I wanna swap out the Integra cluster in the Hatch because the odometer doesn't work at all and the tach jumps all over the place after 4k RPM...

[Ajax1989]

- Sun Jan 26, 2014 1:56 am #341808

he tells me to just calm down and get one from a junkyard. Never tell your pissed off girlfriend/wife

ive done this, im lucky to be alive

- Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:05 am #341816

Anyone know where I could find a roll bar, 8 point cage or something of the sort for our cars? I'm not worried about it being a bolt-in or weld in at the moment, just seeing if there is anything already chassis made. I'll possibly be running in the 10.50 index this year, depending on what I'll need to pass tech I might just stick with the 11.50 index. Thanks peeps!

every cage ive seen in an eg sedan has been custom.
auto power makes one for the integra sedan, could probably make that fit with a little modification.

My never-ending EG8 project.
Daily Driver '98 OBW

- Sun Jan 26, 2014 5:01 am #341817

When you set your timing, do you just clocked the distributor bolt area? I retarded timing all the way to get it to pass emissions a few months ago. Car was sluggish as well, then I set it to where the bolt is in the middle of the hole.

I just saw this question lol. I use my timing gun. Loosen the three bolts and set it with the marks on the pulley with the ECU in diag-mode. On both engines, it seems to be rocked back some.

- Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:36 am #346611 PSA: When installing new CV shafts, make DAMN sure they are fully seated into the transmission.

Otherwise 2 miles down the road on your test drive, you'll hear a POP and be stranded and have to be towed home by an F150...

That'll teach me to doublecheck...

I was at a stop sign and started to turn left, when I heard a loud POP and then the car wouldn't go anywhere in any gear. I swear my first thought was I blew the clutch! My poor baby is in the garage waiting for me to fix her tomorrow.