Civic-EG.com Forum 3.3.1

- Sat Aug 02, 2008 6:37 pm #64307 Well, since I got another stock Si hatch, I have been tempted by some friends to redo my 1.7l stroker build. I had made plans for one with my last D, but ditched them when I got a Complete LS/GSR swap for hella cheap. Well, now I kinda want to see what I can do with this Sohc before I swap the B into it, and my friend that wants my motor would love to get a nice high comp D stroker for his EF sedan.


This is what I have come up with so far. If you have any input speak up, for I havent really gotten into the exact specs to deep as of right now.

D16z6 block
D17a Crank
D17a Rods
JDM VTI Piston (P08-010)
D16z6/y8 head gasket
D16z6 head


From what I can tell so far with this here are some specs.

CR = 10.26:1
Piston to Deck = 0.016
Rod stroke Ratio = 1.45
Motor CC's = 1668.19

I have to go back and check the math to make sure I have the right compression height on the piston also, I just at the moment dont know whre I put my note book with all my work done.

Let me know what you all think.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:23 pm #64563 i was interested in doing this as well but i have too much on my plate right now.
here's a post from someone who has though:
from Honda-Tech.com
posted by Jim Truett

Q:is it even possiable to put a D17 crank into the D16 as a bolt on affair or would I need to make changes to the block has anyone done this before?

Yes, it is possible, in fact, that is what I am running right now. You need to notch the block and main girdle for the rod swing. You will need to carry over the crank/rods/pistons/oil pump from the D17, or have custom pistons and rods made if you are looking for more than 280whp. I am running right at 260whp at 11 psi right now, on stock rods with polished beams, and stock PLR pistons .020" over. You will also need to run a b16 crank pulley, or bore out the stock D16 crank pulley to match the D17 crank snout. If you are using a D16Z6 block you will need to modify a D16Y8 rear main seal housing to fit. If you are using a D16Y8 block, you will need to drill the oil pump for the dipstick. Either way, you will need a Y6 or Y8 oil pan.

- Mon Aug 04, 2008 4:56 pm #64601 Yea, I got the idea from a friend in Vegas. She had it on her car. from what i remember it was a z6 not a y8.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:54 pm #64616 yes, it was a z6.
because of the longer stroke, it had lots of torque, but could not rev so high.
that's probably why he boosted instead of NA.

- Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:20 pm #64670 no real need to take it higher than 7500. with it balanced and blueprinted it should handle that just fine.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:19 am #64686 thats good because a lot fo NA performance cams require high compression and high rpms(and tuning) to make their power.

i'm interested to see how this build turns out!

btw i like the fat fives and clear corners for the teal hatch in your sig.
my coupe is the same except no side markers, and for now has SIs until i can afford new tires for the fives.

- Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:22 am #64688 Yea, those corners were annialated in a wreck and the Fat fives were stolen. Car looks different now.


Im not sure this build will ever happen now. Only time will tell. its hard finding the crank and rods.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300

- Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:54 pm #64757 damn, that sucks.
do you know anyone that works at your local honda dealer?
i heard that a lot of d17's were being replaced under warrantee.
you might be able to get a d17 crank and rods from them.

- Wed Aug 06, 2008 12:24 am #64825 I work at a honda dealer. I havent seen any yet. if I do I will nab them.

1986 Nissan 300zx
1980 Kawasaki KZ650
2014 Kawasaki Ninja 300